THE TEXTILE WORLD RECORD 

KINK BOOKS 
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Kinks for Knitters 

No. 2 



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Questions and Answers Department 

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TEXTILE WORLD RECORD 



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The "Nutaper" Coner is adjusta- 
ble; winds hard or soft, ''close" 
or " open" spaced packages. This 
means the machine can be adapted 
to any type of single or ply yarns 
and produce a cone that will knit 
clean. 

In spinning care is taken to adjust 
exactly the mule or frame to obtain 
the count and number of turns per 
inch desired. The spinner well 
knows the necessity for such ad- 
justment to produce yarn as speci- 
fied. Why should not equal care 
be given winding? A " Universal" 
machine properly adjusted means 
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THE TEXTILE WORLD RECORD 
KINK BOOKS 

No. 10. 

Kinks for Knitters 

No. 2 



From the 

Questions and Answers Department 

of the 

TEXTILE WORLD RECORD 



COMPILED AND EDITED BY 

CLARENCE HUTTON 



LORD & NAGLE COMPANY 

Publishers 

Boston, Mass., U. S. A. 






Copyright, 191 2 

LORD & NAGLE COMPANY 

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©CI.A309069 






PREFACE 



The success which attended the publication 
of Kinks for Knitters, the first of the Textile 
World Record kink books, a large edition 
having been exhausted within a few months, 
has led us to compile this book of practical ex- 
periences in knit goods manufacturing. 

The editors of the Textile World Record 
are at all times face to face with the problem 
of securing practical information. For years its 
subscribers have been invited to make free use 
of its columns in asking questions relating to ^ 
textile manufacturing, and it occurred to us 
that if some of the most important and most 
interesting of the practical questions that have 
been answered were gathered together in a 
handy form for quick reference it would meet 
a widespread want. 

This book contains information which has 
been supplied by manufacturers, superintend- 
ents and overseers from their private record 
books and their stores of knowledge gained by 
experience. Many questions are answered and 
much information given, but subscribers 
should remember that if there is any infor- 
mation they desire which is not given in this 
volume, it is their privilege to ask the Ques- 
tions and Answers Department of the Textile 



O PREFACE 

World Record and every effort will be made 
to publish the information they want, pro- 
vided the question is one of general interest to 
the trade. 

No effort has been made to group the ques- 
tions and answers relating to the different 
operations in knit goods manufacturing in any 
part of the book. The index has been care- 
fully prepared, however, and its use should 
enable anyone to secure the information he 
seeks in the shortest possible time. 

Grateful acknowledgment is due to the men 
who have supplied the information, and if 
Kinks for Knitters No. 2 should benefit any of 
the large number of men for whom it is in- 
tended, both they and the publishers will feel 
that its mission has been accomplished. 
TEXTILE WORLD RECORD, 

Lord & Nagle Company, 

Publishers. 



Kinks For Knitters No. 2. 



"Air Stains" on Bleached Goods 

Enclosed find sample of bleached knit goods 
with yellow streaks. Could you inform us the 
cause of these yellow marks, which have given 
us considerable trouble during the hot 
weather? In our bleaching process we boil 
out with caustic soda and bleaching assistant 
and use chloride lime in bleaching and sour 
with oil or vitriol. We then soap with chip 
soap, but the yellow marks will appear 
whether we use soap or not. We dry and roll 
the goods on what is called the Murphy dryer, 
putting the goods on wool covered pipes damp 
and blowing ho.t air through the pipes, drying 
the goods while they are rolled up. 

Wayburn (1206). 

The stains on the sample of knit goods are 
what are called "air stains." These stains ap- 
pear more often in hot weather than in cold. 
If the goods are left in a damp condition in a 
hot room, or when they are exposed to hot air 
and left in a pile, the streaks will often ap- 
pear. If the goods are dryed up every night 
no difficulty will be experienced. 

The system of drying that "Wayburn" ex- 
plains is a very good one and I feel confident 
that the streaks are not caused by this proc- 
ess. If there are any goods lying in the wet 



10 KINKS FOR KNITTERS 

state during the night or week ends, examine 
them carefully next morning and you will 
notice the yellow streaks around the over- 
hanging laps. These can be taken out by 
pouring boiling water on them through a fine 
spray or garden hose. If this method does no 
good or if the stains are heavy the goods will 
have to be given a sour bath. 

I have had this same trouble in hot weather 
and find that by covering all the wet goods 
that have to lie over night with wet cloths the 
trouble is removed. If we have any goods 
lying in the white piles we cover them with 
sheets and give them a good bath with the 
hose three or four times each day. Delco. 



Broken Needles 



We. enclose sample of a 3 6-gauge standard 
B needle. We are having a lot of them broken 
off at the heads like sample. I am also send- 
ing a sample of a stocking. You will notice 
that it is broken between the gore. There is a 
place on the machine where the yarn guide 
never touches the needles, as they do not go 
in or out. Can you give me some information 
as to what breaks the needles? We are using 
a 79 standard B machine. Weston (1228). 

There are a great many things which may 
cause the breaking of needles and for this 
reason it is a very difficult matter to give the 
exact cause of the trouble in "Weston's" case 



KINKS FOR KNITTERS II 

without having a chance to see the machine in 
operation. However, I will state the principal 
faults which usually are the cause of needle 
breakage, and by acting upon each of these 
suggestions separately "Weston" should be 
able to locate the trouble. 

The principal cause of needles breaking off 
at the hook or cheek is running the machine 
at too high a rate of speed. A 79 standard B 
machine should not be run at more than 290 
revolutions per minute. 

Another cause for breakage is the stitch 
cams being worn off round at the corners. 
The main stitch cams should be kept well 
smoothed up, and when worn off at the cor- 
ners should either be replaced with new ones 
or the corners drawn out and squared up. 
From the appearance of the sample sent me I 
would say that this was the cause of the 
trouble. When the stitch cams become worn 
it is impossible to get a uniform stitch or ten- 
sion, which results in the fabric having an 
uneven stitch, one course being tight and the 
next one loose. This is especially true if the 
belts are not kept well tightened and a uni- 
form speed maintained. 

Using yarn that is too fine for the machine 
might also cause breakage of the needles. 
The use of such yarn necessitates the tight- 
ening of the stitch to such an extent as to put 



12 KINKS FOR KNITTERS 

too much strain on the hooks of the needles. 
This always results if the machine is run at 
too high a rate of speed. The fault can be 
remedied by using a needle with a smaller 
hook or by reducing the speed, without affect- 
ing the weight of the goods. 

Another cause for breakage may be not 
cleaning the head of the machine as often as 
it should be. Again the yarn guide or latch 
ring sometimes becomes worn rough and will 
break the needles. However, in this case the 
latch is usually broken off instead of the 
hook. 

Too much care cannot be taken to keep 
the stitch cams and filling-in cams well 
smoothed up and the worn cams replaced with 
new ones so the needles will pass smoothly 
through the needle trough or path of the cam 
cylinder, thus preventing the needles from 
being subject to quick and unnecessary jars or 
strain. Merrill. 



Seconds and Waste on Underwear 

Please advise us what is the average per- 
centage of seconds and waste on ladies' cotton 
ribbed underwear for a 6 1/2 lb. carded yarn 
garment, an 8 lb. combed yarn garment, and a 
1/4 lb. Richelieu and 2 by 2 straight cloth. 

Salem (1068). 

T have no exact data as to the percentage of 



KINKS FOR KNITTERS 13 

seconds on ladies' underwear, but the average 
percentage of seconds will run from 3 to 7 per 
cent. If the mill does not exceed 3 per cent. 
of seconds on any of these lines it is doing 
very well. On the other hand if the percent- 
age of seconds exceed 7 per cent, the mill is 
likely to be manufacturing at a loss, as owing 
to the very close competition in all classes of 
knit underwear, either men's or ladies', the 
margin of profit is figured so very close that it 
would be entirely wiped out by the loss on 
seconds should they exceed 7 per cent. Most 
manufacturers figure on about 5 per cent, of 
seconds. Lafayette. 



Waste on Ribbed Hosiery 

Please let me know what amount of waste 
is figured per dozen of fine gauge ribbed ho- 
siery, made of 18s carded peeler yarn. The 
ribbers are running without stop motions. 
Also how many needles are generally used per 
day on the same stockings. Orleans (1112). 

The amount of waste will depend very 
largely upon conditions. For example, some 
manufacturers run the yarn direct from the 
cone, while others backwind all their cones. 
In order to keep the waste down to the low- 
est possible amount, the yarn should be re- 
wound, and the best grade of mule spun yarn 
used. If the machines are in good repair and 



14 KINKS FOR KNITTERS 

operated by experienced operators, the waste- 
from the ribbers should not run over two 
ounces to the dozen, while the waste from the 
transfer machines will run about the same. 
The menders in this class of work will aver- 
age about ten per cent. 

The needle breakage on the ribbers should 
not be over one needle to every five dozen of 
ribbed tops. The needle breakage on the 
transfer machines should not be over one 
needle to four ounces of work. However, in 
mills buying their yarns in small quantities 
and from different companies the waste and 
menders are likely to be more than this. In 
our mill we are making this grade of work 
and are running the yarn direct from the 
Gones, and by actual test of thirty days' run on 
twenty-four machines, we find our waste aver- 
ages four ounces per dozen, while the mend- 
ers average about ten per cent. On our trans- 
fer machines our waste, including ravelings, 
averages two ounces per day, while the loop- 
ers' waste amounts to one ounce per dozen. 
This makes the total waste on this class of 
goods seven ounces per dozen, and our mend- 
ers ten per cent, or about three ounces per 
dozen. 

We have also found that the greater por- 
tion of the waste from the ribbers is caused 
by poor winding. This will cause numerous 
press-offs and bad needles. We have been. 



KINKS FOR KNITTERS 15 

able to greatly reduce the waste by back wind- 
ing our yarn, which we do whenever possible. 
Where the yarn is rewound the use of stop 
motions is unnecessary, but in mills not hav- 
ing the capacity to rewind the yarn, I would 
advise the use of stop-motions as one of the 
best ways of reducing the waste. They reduce 
the number of press-offs, and preserve the 
needles, which are the two principal causes of 
waste from ribbers. Merrill. 

The amount of waste on rib frames using 
ISs carded peeler yarn will vary considerably 
where stop motions are not used. In some 
cases the waste will average as high as five per 
cent, and as low as two per cent., but this is 
mostly the fault of the yarn. We are running 
our ribbers with stop motions, one boy run- 
ning twenty machines, and the waste for the 
last six months averaged ten ounces per hun- 
dred dozen. We use 16s carded yarn. 

The number of needles used on the same 
machines should not be more than three for 
each machine. If the machines are kept oiled 
and clean three needles will be sufficient. Oil- 
ing and cleaning have a great deal to do with 
broken needles. The ribbers should be cleaned 
every two weeks. By cleaning I mean the cam 
cylinder and needle slots. It would be 
economy in the end if "Orleans" put stop mo- 



l6 KINKS FOR KNITTERS 

tions on his ribbers, if he has ten or more, as 
they will pay for themselves in less than a 
year. Ravenswood. 



Stiff Latches 

We are manufacturing mufflers and have a 

lot of needles with stiff latches caused by lint 

getting in. Kindly inform us how to get the 

lint out. Is there a solution that we can use? 

Manufacturer (1194). 

I have never had any trouble of this kind 
except with yarn that had previously been run 
through some gummy solution before being 
delivered to the needles, either at the winder 
or knitter. I have examined the sample 
needles and find the lint the same as when the 
yarn has been treated with lard or other oil 
solutions. If "Manufacturer" will use dry 
paraffine, instead of the solution he is using, 
the trouble will be remedied. I usually melt 
the paraffine and mold it in large discs, put- 
ting one disc on top of the other and running 
the yarn between the two, which are so ar- 
ranged as to revolve as the yarn passes be- 
tween them. By doing this the discs will wear 
down evenly and can be used much longer and 
with a more even tention than if the yarn 
were simply run over a cake of paraffine. In 
the latter case the yarn cuts into the paraffine 
necessitating frequent remolding. The latter 



KINKS FOR KNITTERS l>] 

method, however, is the simplest for experi- 
mental purposes and will give nearly the same 
result. Madison. 



Variation in Size of Yarn 

Please advise me what variation from cor- 
rect weight ought reasonably to be allowed 
from day to day on undyed, ring spun hosiery 
yarn, say No. 10. Bradford (992). 

This question, although apparently simple, 
is in fact involved in many difficulties and it is 
impossible to give a general answer that will 
apply to all cases. The wide variations in the 
humidity of the atmosphere in different parts 
of the country causes unavoidable variations 
in the yarn. The variations for one mill might 
be kept in fairly uniform limits, but these 
could not be accepted for any other mill in a 
different district. Dorset. 

It would be a difficult matter to draw a 
hard and fast line as to the variation to be 
allowed on No. 10 ring spun yarn, from day to 
day, as there are so many minor details to be 
taken into consideration, circumstances being 
different in every mill. 

The man who has care of the spinning de- 
partment, to be successful in keeping his yarn 
the correct number, should not follow any set 
rule in arriving at the proper weight to spin 



l8 KINKS FOR KNITTERS 

his yarn, but must use his own judgment,, 
based on the condition of his spinning rooms. 
I have known cases where two rooms in a 
spinning mill have had frames spinning the 
same numbers, from exactly the same hank 
roving, on precisely the same make of ma- 
chine, yet the same gears would not produce 
exactly the same numbers of yarn; the varia- 
tion being caused by the difference in tem- 
perature and humidity of the respective 
rooms. This is undoubtedly the most import- 
ant matter to be considered in arriving at the 
correct weight to keep the yarn in the spin- 
ning rooms from day to day. 

The humidity will vary in sympathy with 
the outside atmosphere, and on damp days our 
friend will need to spin his yarn lighter to the 
extent of as much as five per cent., or it will 
run too coarse. 

Yarn will usually run heavier in the morn- 
ing, when the machinery and rooms are cool, 
than in the afternoon when everything has got 
warmed up. Consequently it is requisite to 
make the yarn half a tooth heavier in the sec- 
ond portion of the day, in order to keep the 
day's production as near the correct numbers 
as possible. 

To obviate this variation and prevent the 
necessity of making so many alterations in the 
gears, the writer adopted the system of har- 



KINKS FOR KNITTERS 19 

ing the spinning room floors sprinkled with 
water at intervals during the afternoon, which 
increases the humidity of the rooms and tends 
to keep the yarn throughout the day as near 
the correct number as possible, and also to im- 
prove the working of the yarn to an appre- 
ciable extent. The better and more up to date 
plan is to install humidifiers, by which means 
you can increase or decrease the humidity of 
the rooms as may seem desirable. 

Humidifiers are certainly a great assistance 
in attaining regularity in the yarn in the spin- 
ning room, though if they could by any means 
be fixed underneath the frames instead of over 
the top, which would allow the moisture to 
ascend through the roving and yarn, instead 
of descending on them, the result derived 
would be more satisfactory. 

It is also necessary for the spinning over- 
seer to know whether the product is to be 
dampened after leaving the spinning rooms, 
and if so, to what extent, as he will have to 
spin his yarn lighter to compensate for the 
amount of moisture to be added. Even if the 
yarn is not to be conditioned, but is to be kept 
in a cool place for several days before being 
used, it will gain considerably in weight on 
coarse numbers, which gain will have to be 
allowed for in spinning the yarn, or the yarn 
will be too heavy. 



20 KINKS FOR KNITTERS 

Another point to be remembered is that soft 
spun yarn will absorb moisture quicker and 
to a greater extent than hard spun yarn, so 
that it requires practical experience to enable 
the overseer to keep the yarn the correct 
number. 

On very hot, dry days the yarn will require 
to be spun heavier than on humid days, or it 
will run too light, and not only be the wrong 
weight, but will spin badly, be a source of loss 
to the employer through decrease in produc- 
tion, deterioration in the quality of the yarn, 
also extra amount of waste, and cause trouble 
and dissatisfaction to the employes by keeping 
them busy piecing up the broken threads. It 
behooves the man in charge to carefully watch 
these matters. 

Testing the yarn from each spinning frame 
every morning and afternoon will show how 
it is running. It can then be made heavier or 
lighter as required. I should advise weighing 
the roving to see that it is kept on regular 
weight, because if it is coming irregular it 
may cause numerous changes in the spinning 
frames, which could and should be avoided. 

Provided the roving is manipulated right, 
the spinning overseer should not have any 
serious difficulty in keeping his production the 
correct weight. By closely watching the sev- 



KINKS FOR KNITTERS 21 

eral details heretofore enumerated, he will 
gain practical experience that brings success. 

Denbigh. 

In order to get a satisfactory reply to this 
question the writer has been weighing and 
breaking yarns for twenty days. We have in 
our mill yarns from 3s to 9 5s, but the yarn I 
have been watching has been 21s. I have 
found that the yarn has varied only half a 
number. I do not know why the correspond- 
ent should say "undyed" yarn unless he wishes 
to know what count he should spin to have 
the yarn come out a 10s yarn after it has been 
dyed. If this is the reason, he should spin as 
near to a 9 1/2 yarn as possible and then he 
will find that he will have a variation of about 
half a number. A great deal depends on how 
well the roving has been prepared for the 
yarn. Good, even carding, drawing and stub- 
bing will go a great ways in getting a good 
even yarn. The condition of the roving from 
day to day will make a great variation in the 
yarn. It makes no difference whether the 
yarn is dyed or undyed, the variation will be 
the same, that is, about half a number. One 
day it might be 10.25, another day 9.75 or 
even 9.50. If single roving is used there will 
be a greater variation than with the double 
roving. 



22 KINKS FOR KNITTERS 

Among the many causes for variation in 
yarn are long and short staple cotton, poor 
mixing, bad carding, uneven drawing, etc., all 
of which make it very difficult for the spin- 
ner to spin a yarn that will be 10s, 20s or 3 0s 
all the time. Gamaliel Gaunt. 



Oily Odor on Finished Goods 

I am sending you two swatches of knit cloth. 
One is about 60 per cent, wool and wool stock, 
the rest cotton, and the other is all cotton. I 
am using a soap made of 50 pounds good palm 
oil soap, 75 pounds alkali, 180 gallons water, 
and am using 12 gallons to 9 to 100 pounds 
of goods. The goods are all right when they 
are first finished, but after being boxed and 
lying four or six weeks they smell oily. 

Waveland (1908). 

The following is a good formula for making 
soap: Have two tanks, one for palm oil soap 
and one for olive oil soap or green soap. The 
tanks should hold about ninety gallons of 
water. Pill half full and add sixty pounds of 
palm oil soap and in the other tank add sixty 
pounds olive oil soap. Boil both solutions until 
they are well dissolved and then run up the 
tanks full of water, adding thirty pounds am- 
moniated potash and boil for two hours, when 
the soap is ready to use. 

To treat eighty pounds of goods first use six 
gallons of palm oil soap, or two pailfuls of 



KINKS FOR KNITTERS 23 

olive oil soap. It will be easy to get at the 
cost. One hundred pounds of goods is too 
much for any fulling mill, to attempt to full at 
one time. I have always had good results and 
there is no odor from the goods. Howard. 



Marking Buttons for White Goods 

We have difficulty in marking buttons for 
white goods. If we use red or blue pencil the 
marks will not come off. Kindly give us some 
information on this subject. 

Dawson (1189). 

It does not seem possible that anyone could 
get into difficulty over such a trifle as marking 
buttons, and the best advice I could give would 
be to weed out some of the help. I might say, 
however, that I never allow a colored pencil to 
be used for button marking except on black 
goods. On all other goods the markers use a 
common lead pencil, making a small dot 
where the button is to be sewed on. A little 
care in sharpening the pencil so that the lead 
does not show through the wood too far is all 
that I have found necessary. Madison. 

For marking the place to sew on buttons 
we have always used an ordinary soft black 
pencil, making a small dot where the button is 
to be sewed on. With a little care the button 
could be sewed right over the dot. This is 



24 KINKS FOR KNITTERS 

done on all balbriggan underwear. However, 
I would suggest that "Dawson" get crayon or 
chalk pencils, like tailors' chalk, which will 
not only rub off, but can also be brushed off. 

Lafayette. 



Machines, Yarn Sizes and Piece Work Prices 
for Hosiery Knitting 

Can you give me any data on the sizes of 
machines to use for different classes of work, 
including the gauge of the needles, size of 
yarn, weight of goods and piece work prices? 

Cole (2106). 

During my somewhat extensive experience 
in the manufacture of hosiery I have collected 
data on the sizes of the machines to use for 
different classes of work, including the gauge 
of the needles, size of yarn, weight of goods 
and piece work prices. 

Misses' or boys' 1 by 1 ribbed leg, plain foot, 
weight 1 1/2 pounds a dozen for size 7 1/2 
inch, sizes 5 to 9 1/2 inches. 

Yarn for legs, 2/ 3 4s combed Egyptian cot- 
ton. 

Yarn for feet, l/14s combed Egyptian cot- 
ton. 

Needles for cylinder of ribbers, 3 6 gauge 
with a 42 gauge hook. 

Needles for dial of ribbers, 48 gauge. 

Needles for footers, 42 gauge. 



KINKS FOR KNITTERS 2$ 

Sizes of machines for legs: 

Diameter of No. of Size of 

cylinder needles. stocking. 

3 3/4 inches 96 5-5 1/2 inches 

4 " 108 6-61/2 " 

4 1/4 " 120 7-7 1/2 «« 

4 1/4 " 132 8-8 1/2 •• 

4 3/4 " 144 9-9 1/2 '* 

The number of needles given above are for 
the cylinder only. As the rib is 1 by 1, the 
dials will have the same number of needles 
also. 

Sizes of machines for feet: 

Diameter of No. of Size of 

cylinder. needles. stocking. 

•- ( 1/2 inches 06 5-5 1/2 inches 

•2 3/4 '< 108 6-6 1/2 " 

3 " 120 7-7 1/2 " 

3 1/4 " 132 8-8 1/2 " 

3 1/2 " 144 0-91/2 «' 

As the footers have the same number of 
needles as the cylinders of ribbers, in trans- 
ferring the stitches of the ribbed legs to the 
footers, two stitches will be required to go 
over each needle. 

Approximate Piece Work Prices 

Knitting legs 03 per dozen 

Knitting feet, (including transferring of 

legs) 18 " 

Looping 0475" 

Mending 03 " 

Dyeing (black) 07 " 

Finishing:, which includes boarding, dry- 
ing, inspecting, folding and boxing. . . .07 " 

Boxes (2) for 1 dozen 04 " 

Cases and shipping .015 •* 



26 KINKS FOR KNITTERS 

Misses' or boys' 1 by 1 ribbed leg, full fash- 
ioned heel and foot — sizes 5 to 9 1/2 inches: 

Yarn for ribbed legs, 2/35s combed Egyp- 
tian or 2/ 3 6s lisle. 

Yarn for heels, 2/ 3 5s combed Egyptian with 
an additional splicing thread of l/100s 
combed Egyptian. 

Yarn for feet, 2/30s combed Egyptian. 

Weight per dozen on size 7 1/2 inches, 1 
pound 10 ounces. 

Needles for ribbers; cylinder, 3 6 gauge with 
42 gauge hook; dial 48 gauge. 

Heels and feet knit on German full fash- 
ioned flat footers and heelers, gauge 36. 

Legs on Circular Rib Machines 

Diameter of No. of needles Size of 

cylinder. in cylinder. stockings. 

3 1/4 inches 104 5-51/2 inches 



.112 6-61/2 

.120 7-71/2 

.128 8 

.136 81/2-9 

.144 91/2 



3 1/2 
3 3/4 
4 

41/4 
41/2 

As the rib is 1 by 1, the dials will have the 
same number of needles as cylinders. 

Piece "Work Prices per Dozen 

Knitting legs °3 

Knitting heels 035 

Marking 01 

Topping heel 05 

Topping feet 06 

Knitting feet 08 



KINKS FOR KNITTERS 2/ 

Inspecting 015 

Looping 05 

Seaming 03 

Turning twice 01 

Mending 03 

Pulling ends 005 

Dyeing (black) including dyestuffs 0625 

Singeing 01 

Sorting 0025 

Boarding 02 

Pairing 01 

Folding and boxing 01 

Stamping 005 

Boxes (two for 1 doz.) 04 

•Cases and packing 015 

Total 58 

Boys' heavy 1 by 1 ribbed legs, plain foot, 
sizes 6 to 9 1/2 inches: 

Yarn for ribbed legs, 3 threads, l/16s 
carded cotton. 

Yarn for heels, 2 threads l/12s carded cot- 
ton with l/60s splicing thread additional. 

Yarn for feet, 2 threads 1/1 2s cotton. 

Weight per dozen, 4 1/2 pounds on 9 1/2 
inch. 

Needles for ribbers, 18 gauge cylinder, 24 
gauge dial. 

Needles for footers, 24 gauge. 

Legs on circular rib machines: 

Diameter of No. of needles Sizes of 

cylinder. in cylinder. stockings. 

4 1/4 inches 66 6 and 6 1/2 inches 

4 3/4 " 72 7 and 7 1/2 " 

5 " 75 8 

5 1/4 «' 78 S 1/2 and 9 " 

1/2 " 81 . 91/2 



28 KINKS FOR* KNITTERS 

The dials have the same number of needle* 
as binders. 

Footers on 3/4 automatic circular ma- 
chines: 

Diameter of No. of needles Sizes of 

cylinder. in cylinder. stockings.. 

2 3/4 inches 100 — 6 and 6 1/2 inches 

3 " log 7 and 7 1/2 " 

31/4 " 120 8and81/2 « 

31/2 " 128 9and91/2 " 

It will be noted that the footers have about 
30 less needles than the ribbed leg cylinder 
and dials together. The extra stitches in 
transferring the ribbed leg to footer are 
placed 2 stitches on one needle at the back 
part of the stocking where the heel is, which 
gives an extra thickness at the back of the foot, 
as the rib part is thus prevented from being 
stretched apart as much as the front part of 
the stocking. 

Piece "Work Prices per Dozen 

Knitting leg 03 

Footing, including transfer of legs 16 

Looping of toes 0375 

Mending 02 

Turning 01 

Inspecting 01 

Dyeing (black) including dyestuffs 18 

Finishing, -which includes boarding, pressing, 

sorting, pairing, folding and boxing 05 

Boxes (2 to the doz) 05 

Cases and packing 015 



Total ." 56 1/4' 



KINKS FOR KNITTERS 29 

Ladies' plain hosiery, using 3/4 or full auto- 
matic circular machines: 
Yarn, l/18s cotton. 
Weight, 2 lbs. to the dozen. 
Needles, 42 gauge. 

Splicing thread in heel, l/60s cotton. 
Cylinder, 4 in., 208 needles. 

Piece Work Prices per Dozen 

Knitting 3/4 07 f nil .05 

"Looping a. .0475 

Welting 02 

Mending 02 

Inspecting 0125 

Turning 005 

Dyeing (black, including dyestuff) 08 

Boarding 015 

Pressing 005 

Sorting 005 

Pairing 0075 

Folding 0075 

Boxi ng 01 

Boxes (one) 025 

Cases and packing .015 

Total 34 1/2 

Men's half hose: 
Tarn, l/18s cotton. 
Weight, 11/4 lbs. to a dozen. 
Needles for ribbers, 3 6 gauge, 42 gauge 
liook for cylinder, 48 gauge for dial. 
Tops, 1 by 1 rib. 



30 KINKS FOR KNITTERS 

Diameter of No. of needles Sizes of 

cylinder. in cylinder. stockings. 

3 3/4 inches 96 9 1/2 and 10 

3 3/4 " 100 10 1/2 and 11 

Legs and Feet 

3 3/4 inches 192 9 1/2 and 10 

4 " 200 ..10 1/2 and 11 

Piece Work Prices per Dozen 

Knitting leg and foot, including transfer of top. . .15 

Looping = 0475 

Mending 02 

Inspecting 0125- 

Turning 005 

Dyeing (black, including dyestuff) 05 

Boarding , . .015 

Pressing 005 

Sorting 005 

Pairing 0075- 

Folding 0075- 

Boxing 01 

Boxes (two) .05 

Cases and Packing 015 

Total 41 

Boys' 4 by 1 ribbed legs: Plain foot, sizes 
6 to 9 1/2 inches. 

Yarn for legs, l/7s cotton. 

Splicing thread for heel, l/20s cotton. 

Yarn for feet, l/9s cotton. 

Weight of ribbed legs, 1 lb. 12 1/4 ozs. ora 
9 in. 

Weight of whole stocking on 9 in., 2 lbs^ 
5 1/2 ozs. 



KINKS FOR KNITTERS 31 

Ribbers 

Diameter No. of No. of 

of needles in needles in Sizes of 

cylinder. cylinder. dial. stockings. 

4 10 25 6 and 6 1/2 in. 

4 1/4 104 26 7 and 7 1/2 in. 

4 1/2 108 27 8 and 8 1/2 in 

4 3/4 112 28 9 and 9 1/1 in 

Footers 

3 104 6 and 6 1/2 in. 

3 1/4 112 7 and 7 1/2 in. 

:$ 1/2 120 8 and 8 1/2 in. 

3 3/4 128 4 and 9 1/2 in. 

All weights given are as knitted and before 
dyeing. 

Boys' 2 by 1 ribbed legs. Plain foot, sizes 
6 to 9 1/2 inches. 

Ribbers 

Diameter No of No. of 

of needles in needles in Sizes of 

cylinder. cylinder. dial. stockings. 

4 100 50 6 and 6 1/2 in. 

4 1/4 104 52 7 and 7 1/2 in. 

4 1/2 108 54 8 and 8 1/2 in. 

+ 3/4 112 56 9 and 9 1/2 in. 

Footers 

3 104 6 and 6 1/2 in. 

3 1/4 112 7 and 7 1/2 in. 

3 1/2... 120 8 and 8 1/2 in. 

3 3/4 128 9 and 9 1/2 in. 

Needles, 18 gauge for cylinders, 24 gauge 
for dials. 

Legs, 1/1 Is cotton; weight per dozen, 
1-3 7/16 ozs. 



$2 KINKS FOR KNITTERS 

Feet, l/10s cotton. Total weight per dozen 
1-11 3/8 ozs. on 9 in. size. 

Boys' 1 by 1 ribbed legs. Plain foot, sizes 
« to 9 1/2 inches. 

Ribbers 

Diameter of Needles in Needles in Sizes of 

cylinder. cylinder. dial. stockings. 

3 1/2 84 84 6 and 61/2 in. 

3 3/4 88 88 7 and 7 1/2 in. 

4 92 92 8 and 8 1/2 in. 

4 1/4 96 96 9 and 9 1/2 in. 

Footers 

3 104 6 and 6 1/2 in. 

3 1/4 .112 7 and 71/2 in. 

3 1/2 120 8 and 81/2 in. 

3 3/4 128 9 and 9 1/2 in. 

Legs, l/12s cotton. 

Weight per dozen, 1 lb. 4 5/16 ozs. 

Feet, l/10s cotton. Total weight per dozen, 

1 lb. 12 3/8 ozs. for 9 in. 
Same machines: 

Legs, l/10s cotton. 

Weight per dozen, 1 lb. 9 1/2 ozs. 

Feet, l/9s cotton. Total weight per dozen, 

2 lb. 3 7/8 ozs. 

For heavier 1 by 1 ribbed legs: 
Ribbers 

Diameter Needles in Needles in Sizes of 

of cylinder, cylinder. dial. Stocking's. 

3 54 54 6 and 61/2 in. 

3 1/4 60 60 7 and 71/2 in. 

3 1/2 66 66 8 and 8 1/2 in. 

3 3/4 72 72 9 and 91/2 in. 



KINKS FOR KNITTERS 33 

Footers 

•2 3/4 96 <i and 6 1/2 in. 

3 104 7 and 7 1/2 in. 

3 1/4 112 8 and 8 1/2 in. 

3 1/2 120 9 and 91/2 in. 

Legs, 2/ 16s. 

Weight per dozen, 2 lbs. 4 1/2 ozs. 

Feet, l/7s cotton. 

Total weight, 2 lbs. 13 3/4 ozs. 

Ladies' seamless plain hosiery: 

Ribbers 

Weight per doz- 
Diameter Size of lor 9 1/2 in. 

of cylinder. Se**dles. cot! on yarn. lbs. ozs. 

3 3/4 96 1/8 1 12 

3 3/4 96 1/7 2 1 

3 3/4 96 1/5 1/2 2 7 

3 3/4 128 1/8 2 4 

3 3/4 17fi 1/13 2 

3 3/4 184 1/12 2 3 3/4 

3 3/4 184 1/14 1 15 1/4 

3 3/4 152 1/12 1 13 1/4 

Ladies' cashmere plated hosiery: 

Diameter Weight 

of cylinder. Needles. lbs. ozs. 

3 3/4 128. .1/238 cashmere (worsted) 2 14 7/16 

3 3/4 176. .1/358 worsted 

1/208 cotton 2 7 13/16 

3 3/4 176. .2/309 all worsted 2 7 13/16 

3 3/4 176.. 2/358 all worsted 2 2 3/4 

Raritan. 



34 KINKS FOR KNITTERS 

Knitting Horsehair 

Can you give us the names of manufacturers 
of knitting machinery for knitting horse hair? 
Also give us an account of the process. 

Knitter (1255). 

Patient inquiries in several directions have 
failed to produce any positive result. The 
horsehair firms do not know of the use of 
their yarns by machine-knitters and the lead- 
ing firms of knitting machine makers in Eng- 
land and on the Continent can throw no light 
on the matter. Inquiries made of the paten- 
tees of "Laptair," a spliced horsehair yarn 
which has been already described in the Tex- 
tile World Record, show that it is not suitable 
for machine knitting. The ends of the. hairs 
are like little hooks and cannot be drawn 
round the needle. I thereupon procured balls 
of 2-fold horsehair spun yarn, of about 200 
yards to the pound and costing 36 cents. By 
the courtesy of Wildt & Co. of Leicester, Eng., 
this has been tried in different machines, but 
not to good purpose. They report: 

"We have made several trials, but cannot 
say it is satisfactory to knit on a machine as 
the hair gets entangled in the hooks of the 
needles. Some time ago we made trials for 
Norwegian manufacturers who intended to 
make slippers from horsehair, but we could 
not succeed." 



KINKS FOR KNITTERS 35 

I forward a skein of the yarn employed, but 
in 3 -fold horsehair, also a bit of goathair yarn 
made by Edward Y/ebb & Sons, Ltd., Wor- 
cester, Eng. The goathair might be more 
knitable but might not answer the inquirer's 
purpose. 

The purpose to which the horsehair is to be 
put is not stated. In case the idea should be 
to make flesh-rubbers it may be said that 
those sold in this country (England) are 
woven. Rubbing bands and gloves are woven 
with a pile which in some cases is cut and in 
others left in the loop. A pleasing appearance 
is lent them by striping in black, brown and 
white hair. James Strand. 



Formula for Scouring Worsted Yarns 

Kindly publish the best formula for scour- 
ing Oxford worsted knitting yarns. 

Chester (1089). 

In scouring Oxford yarns so as to retain the 
soft feel I have always found the following 
method to give good results: For the best 
quality yarns treat with olive oil saponified 
with caustic soda. This used with am- 
moniated soda gives a good scour. For low 
quality, yarns I have used a good cocoa oil 
saponified for the soaping process. This has 
a tendency to leave a smell of cocoa, but if 



.36 KINKS FOR KNITTERS 

the oil is not used too strong and is thoroughly 
washed out it will not be noticed. 

The following is a steeping process which I 
have used to advantage on worsted goods: 
Dissolve 5 lbs. aqua ammonia in 80 gals, of 
water; then dissolve 25 lbs. of good soap in 
25 gals, of water with 10 lbs. of borax. Mix 
the two liquors together. After steeping the 
goods in the liquor very little scouring will be 
necessary. Dulcimer. 



Treatment of Hard Water in Bleaching 

We are enclosing an analysis of water. 
Would this water be suitable for bleaching 
cotton knit goods? If not, how could it be 
treated to make it so. 

Contains. Grains per Gallon. 

Silica 1.9244 

Iron and Alumina 1633 

Sodium Chloride (Salt) 2216 

Sodium Sulphate 6123 

Potassium Sulphate 3966 

Calcium Carbonate (Carbonate 

Lime) 2.2978 

Magnesium Carbonate 4082 

Total Solids by Evaporation . . .6.1350 

Matthew (19 26). 
In bleaching cotton knit goods it is advis- 
able to use as pure a water as possible. The 
reason for this is not only to effect an economy 
in the use of the chemicals employed for the 
actual bleaching and boiling out processes, but 



KINKS FOR KNITTERS $J 

also with an idea of obtaining a better quality 
of bleached fabric. The softer and cleaner the 
water used, the softer and cleaner will be the 
resultant cloth after bleaching. From the 
analysis of the water as given in the inquiry, I 
would say it would be classified as a moder- 
ately soft water, but from the fact that it con- 
tains quite an appreciable quantity of iron, it 
is likely to give trouble in boiling out and 
bleaching. If the iron were removed and the 
water also properly softened, it would be very 
good to use in bleaching. 

While it could be used untreated and per- 
haps quite satisfactory results obtained, if the 
knit goods are bleached on the open run, 
nevertheless, I would recommend that the 
water be filtered. The best kind of filter to 
employ for this purpose would be a sand-pres- 
sure filter provided with an alum cell so that 
the iron could be completely removed as the 
water passes through the filter. Such filters 
can be obtained from specialists in this line of 
work. Before the prospective manufacturer 
decides definitely on this matter it would be 
best for him to take the advice of a suitable 
consulting chemist experienced in the matter 
of bleaching cotton goods. Howell. 

A sample of water shows upon analysis to 
contain 



,38 KINKS FOR KNITTERS 



Grains per Gallon 

Silicia 1.9244 

Iron and Alumina 1633 

Sodium Chloride 2216 

Sodium Sulphate ............ .6123 

Potassium Sulphate 3966 

Calcium Carbonate i .. 2.2978 

Magnesium Carbonate 4082 



Total solids of evaporation. . 6.13 50 

This water is not unsuited for hosiery 
bleaching, provided the quantity of iron pres- 
ent does not materially increase. The figure 
(.163 3) given in the analysis is for both "iron 
and alumina," with the presumption in favor 
of the alumina predominating, in which case 
no serious results will be had. The analysis 
shows that the "hardness" of the water is 
about 3 1/2°, which is comparatively low, and 
which could hardly be improved to advantage. 

The iron can be practically removed by 
aerating the water, that is, arranging a sort 
of fountain or spray so that the water in fine 
particles comes in contact with the air which 
then oxidizes the iron to the insoluble ferric 
state, when it is removed by sand or other 
form of filtration. 

A simple means exists for purifying water 
by the quick adding of chemicals. The com- 
monest water purifying system is based upon 



KINKS FOR KNITTERS 39 

the use of caustic soda and milk of lime, both 
in very small quantities, calculated upon a 
number of analyses, and which cause a most 
complete removal of dissolved impurities, in- 
cluding iron, which is the most objectionable 
impurity from the bleachers' point of view. 

Beta Naphthol. 



Oiling Yarn 

What is the most approved method of oiling 
the yarn before knitting? We have tried para- 
ffining by hand, but it is too slow. We have 
tried oiling it with liquid petroleum and found 
it gave satisfaction when we could get it on 
the yarn with any degree of uniformity. We 
used sight feed oil cups which dripped on to 
a sponge over which the yarn ran on the 
spooling machine. We found this satisfactory 
up to a certain point. The sponge would wear 
out and get clogged with dirt and we could not 
depend on the operators to keep the oil feed 
regulated properly. Is there no attachment 
for winders for oiling or waxing yarn in a sat- 
isfactory manner? Hastings (1288). 

A good method of oiling is that of running 
the yarn over a roll which revolves slowly in 
a trough containing emulsion. The speed of 
the roll as related to the linear speed of the 
yarn, the size of the roll, the length of the 
yarn in contact with the angle of contact, and 
also the height of emulsion in the trough are 
all determining factors as regards the moisten- 
ing of the yarn. Jacob K. Altemus makes au- 



40 KINKS FOR KNITTERS 

tomatic paraffine waxing attachments for 
winders. 

The proper conditioning of the yarn is very- 
important and the amount of moisture to be 
used should be determined by careful experi- 
ments. Undoubtedly one of the reasons why 
American made goods do not nave the soft 
finish of imported fabrics is because we do 
not often soften our yarns before knitting. No 
amount of labor in finishing will ever even the 
length of stitches which have been unevenly 
drawn in knitting. Elibank. 



Equivalent Counts of Single and Ply Yarn 

We would like to have you explain a 
method of finding what numbers are required 
for fine yarns when used double or treble to 
make the same weight of knit goods as a 
coarse single yarn will make. Can you help 
us? Acropolis (1193). 

The problem is very simple if the two or 
three-ply yarns consist of single strands of 
equal size. We will assume that the yarn is 
numbered by the fixed weight system of 
counts: 

Ex. What is the count of the yarn required 
for two-ply cotton yarn to equal a single 20s? 

20 X 2 — 40s, count required. 

Ex. What is the count of the yarn required 
for a three-ply cotton yarn to equal a single 
15s? 



KINKS FOR KNITTERS 41 

15 X 3 — 45s, count required. 

If the yarn is numbered by the fixed length 
system the calculation will be as follows: 

Ex. What is the count of the yarn required 
for a two-ply cotton yarn to equal a yarn 
weighing 50 grains per 120 yards? 

50 -J- 2 — 25 grains, count required. 

Ex. What is the count of the yarn required 
for a three-ply cotton yarn to equal a yarn 
weighing 66 grains per 120 yards? 

6 6 — 3 = 22 grains, count required. 

The method of calculation is the same re- 
gardless of the particular weight or length on 
which the count may be based. Thus, the first 
calculation would be the same for runs, wor- 
sted, linen or other fixed weight system of 
numbering yarn. Likewise the second calcu- 
lation would be the same for grains per 100 
yards, 50 yards, drams per 1,000 yards, deniers 
per 400 aunes, or any other fixed length sys- 
tem of numbering yarn. This applies also to 
the calculations which follow. 

If the two or three-ply yarn consists of 
single strands of different sizes the calculation 
is as follows when numbered by the fixed 
weight system: 

Ex. What is the count of single cotton yarn 
that must be doubled with single 40s to equal 
single 15s? 

(40 X 15) -^ (40 — 15) = 24s, count re- 
quired. 



42 KINKS FOR KNITTERS 

Ex. What is the count of single cotton yarn 
that must be run with a single 40s and a single 
24s to equal a single 12s? 

We first find the count of the 40s and 24s: 

(40 X 24) ^ (40 + 24) = 15s. 

Then the question is to find what count 
must be run with 15s to equal single 12s: 

(15 X 12) -f- (15 — 12) = 60s, count re- 
quired. 

If this yarn is numbered by the fixed length 
system the calculation is as follows: 

Ex What is the count of single cotton yarn 
that must be doubled with 25 grain (per 120 
yards) yarn to equal a single 66 grain yarn? 

66 — 25 =41 grains, count required. 

Ex. What is the count of the single yarn 
that must be run with a 25 grain and a 41 
grain yarn to equal an 83 grain yarn? 

83 — (41 -4- 25) = 17 grains, count required. 

If the yarns are numbered by different sys- 
tems it is necessary to reduce them to a com- 
mon basis. 

Ex. What is the count of single cotton yarn 
that must be doubled with single 60s worsted 
to equal single 15s cotton? 

60s worsted = 40s cotton. 

Then: 

(40 X 15) -=- (40 — 15) = 24s cotton, count 
required. 



KINKS FOR KNITTERS 43 

Lisle Yarn 

What is the correct definition of a lisle yarn 
;and when was it introduced into the United 
States? Lombard (1002). 

The term lisle thread originated at Lisle 
(Lille), France, and refers to a very fine hard 
twisted yarn made for the cotton glove trade. 
The glove cloth was noted for the remarkable 
fineness of texture, and almost entire absence 
of loose fibers on the fabric. Later this class 
of yarn was used in the manufacture of ho- 
siery. It will be of interest to note the exten- 
sive application of this term, which at the 
present time is used in many instances to 
designate merely the smooth fiberless appear- 
ance of the fabric, even when produced from 
coarse and interior yarns. Instances of this 
are found in the manufacture of low grade 
hosiery, made from common carded yarns, 
which are subsequently lisled in conjunction 
with the dyeing process, as in the oxidation 
aniline black, by which the fibers are chem- 
ically burned and rubbed away, thus produc- 
ing a clear foundation to the fabric, similar 
in effect to that produced by the use of a 
combed yarn of much finer count as employed 
In the real lisle products. I have no data as 
to when this class of yarns were first intro- 
duced into the United States. Palmetto. 



44 KINKS FOR KNITTERS 

Preparation to Prevent Rusting 

We have in our mill an English hand knit- 
ting frame that is sometimes standing idle for 
months at a time. We have considerable 
trouble from the sinkers and needles rusting. 
What kind of grease is used on machines to 
prevent rusting, such, for instance, as is used 
on machines packed for transportation by 
European manufacturers? Berkley (1150). 

It is difficult to state what grease is put on 
English machines when packed for a salt 
water voyage, as almost every firm uses a dif- 
ferent compound. The best preparation I 
know of is a mixture of tallow and whiting, 
but some firms use a compound of mineral 
residium grease with a certain amount of wool 
grease, while others use almost anything they 
can pick up which can be called grease. There 
has been a good deal of complaint lately on 
this side of the water on account of the grease 
arriving on some English machinery being so 
hard to clean off. Southdown. 



Depreciation of Machinery in Knitting 
Mills 

Will you kindly give me particulars of the 
rate of depreciation that should be charged 
against the machinery of a knitting mill? 

Stone (2107). 

The depreciation of machinery in a knitting 
mill and the percentage that should be 



KINKS FOR KNITTERS 45 

allowed annually depends a good deal on the 
class of machinery, on the employes whose 
work it is to keep the different machines in 
repair and working order, and also on the 
ideas and views of the proprietors of the mills. 
Certain classes of machines depreciate in 
value more rapidly than others owing to the 
radical improvements being made on them 
from time to time, which render the older ma- 
chines absolutely worthless. Again the value 
of other machines in which only slight im- 
provements are made can be maintained un- 
impaired by adding these improvements. 

In the last twenty-five years hosiery ma- 
chines have depreciated in value more rapidly 
than any other class of knitting machinery 
owing to the rapid and radical improvements. 
Twenty years ago we had what was called the 
hand stocking machine that was considered 
remarkable in its line. It was operated en- 
tirely by hand power. The first improvement 
on these was to add machine power for knit- 
ting the leg part of the stocking. This im- 
provement caused the first machines to be 
practically worthless, as they could not be 
adapted to power. A new machine had to be 
built and whereas it required an operator to 
each hand machine one girl could attend to 
two or three power machines. Improvements 
have been made very rapidly from the old 



46 KINKS FOR KNITTERS 

hand machine to the 1/2, 3/4, 7/8, 15/16, and, 
finally to the full automatic machine of today. 
These are operated entirely by machine power 
and require only a slight supervision and to be 
kept supplied with yarn. 

Bach stage in the development has been, 
marked by sudden depreciation in the value of 
the older machines. Even now that these ma- 
chines have reached the full automatic stage,, 
improvements are still going on so as to make 
them more durable, or less liable to get out 
of order, or to save wear and tear on the 
needles. On this class of machines a manu- 
facturer should deduct at least 10 per cent, 
annually so as to wipe out the cost in ten 
years. 

Spring needle knitting machines depreciate 
very little. While there has been quite a num- 
ber of improvements on this class of machines 
in the last twenty years, still they have been 
in the nature of improved parts, and the con- 
struction is such that an old part could be re- 
moved and the new improved part put in its 
place. A manufacturer who has kept abreast 
of the times and purchased these improved 
parts from time to time, and replaced with 
new parts those which wear, has today practi- 
cally up-to-date machines, which are just as 
good for manufacturing purposes as a new- 
machine made at the present time. 



KINKS FOR KNITTERS 47 

I have known spring needle machines, 
twenty years old, which had been kept in thor- 
ough repair and condition, to be sold for 75 
per cent, of the original cost. 

Manufacturers who have this class of ma- 
chines and who see that they are kept in good 
condition, will not need to allow more than 3 
per cent, annually for depreciation. All new 
or improved parts that have replaced others 
are charged to "repairs" account, which is 
quite proper, as the new improved parts do 
not add to the cost value of the machine, only 
so far as they prevent the value depreciating. 

Certain makes of sewing machines are an- 
other class of machine that do not depreciate 
very rapidly provided new parts are constantly 
procured to replace the worn out parts. 

There are some manufacturers, however, 
who boast of their repair account being small, 
because when a part breaks or is worn con- 
siderably, instead of buying a new part, the 
fixer is told to patch it up so it will run, which 
he does, with the result that in a few years 
the machine is of no value except to be thrown 
out for old iron. It is false economy to patch 
up a broken part of a machine. Fixers often 
remark, "Well, I patched up that all right and 
it is stronger than before." Yes, no doubt that 
is true, but I have found from experience in 
the running of machines this way, that the 



48 KINKS FOR KNITTERS 

fixed up part, which is now stronger, will 
cause the breaking of another part, which 
would not have broken had a new part been 
put in instead of patching up the broken one. 

This principle applies to nearly all kinds of 
machinery, and it may be stated generally that 
it does not pay to patch the machine, but that 
it is cheaper and better in the end to replace 
all broken and worn out parts with new ones 
and in this way keep up the condition and 
value of the machine. Take sewing machines 
as a whole. I think 5 per cent, annually is 
sufficient to cover depreciation. 

Cop winders depreciate very little. The 
chain parts and the shaft boxes are the parts 
that wear out first and these are easily re- 
placed with new. Then the spindle sockets 
and bearings are other parts that wear, caus- 
ing the spindles to run untrue. Still good bob- 
bins can be wound, even when these are 'con- 
siderably worn with long use, so that 5 per 
cent, annually would be ample to allow for the 
depreciation of this class. 

Washing machinery depreciates rapidly 
from the rotting of the wood as well as from 
greatly improved labor saving machines that 
are being brought out from time to time, so 
that for this class not less than 10 per cent, 
should be allowed annually. 

Generally speaking, therefore, the deprecia- 



KINKS FOR KNITTERS 49 

tion of machinery depends upon whether the 
machines have been rapidly improved or not 
and also whether they have been continually 
kept in good repair and in good working con- 
dition. Raritan. 



Removing Oil Spots 

I am having trouble in removing spots of 
machine oil from socks that are to be bleached 
snow white. I can eventually remove oil by 
hard rubbing. I am enclosing a sample of the 
goods. How can the difficulty be remedied? 

Bleacher (1227). 

I am returning the samples of knit goods 
which I have treated in the following manner, 
with the following solution: 

Aqua ammonia, 1 quart; best white soap, 1 
pound; saltpeter, 2 ounces, and 2 gallons of 
soft water. Dissolve the soap and saltpeter in 
the water when boiling, let it stand until cold, 
then skim and add the ammonia. Soak the 
goods that are stained in the above solution 
for twelve hours, then proceed to bleach in the 
regular manner. If the oil is very strong it 
might be necessary to rub the goods lightly. 
The samples returned have not been rubbed. 
The above solution will not tender the finest 
fabric. Keeping the oil off the goods will pay 
better than the most economical method of 
removing the spots. Alpha. 



50 KINKS FOR KNITTERS 

Crooked or Twisted Hosiery Knitting 

We are having difficulty in knitting ladies' 
hosiery straight. We use 24 single mule yarn. 
Please state how to remedy this trouble. 

Monton (997). 

No circular knitting machine knits straight 
for the reason that each course of loops upon 
the preceding course are knit in a spiral man- 
ner like the thread of a screw. On circular 
machines where sinkers are used and there 
are no weights or take-up to roll up the cloth 
as knit, the natural effect of the circular knit- 
ting is shown. Light, flimsy knitting like the 
sample sent shows the spiral effect more than 
it does on heavier and closer knit fabrics. On 
circular machines where weights or take-ups 
are used, this spiral effect is not noticed, but 
when the cloth is unrolled it will run in a 
spiral manner. On underwear this is remedied 
and straightened after the cloth has been wet 
and dried. On hosiery it is straightened when 
the stockings are boarded. The only remedy 
is to run the knitted fabrics through take-up 
rollers on to a roll. This does not alter the 
effect of the spiral knitting, but merely keeps 
it straight after it is knit. The roll when un- 
wound will still have a tendency to go back to 
the spiral effect. Lafayette. 

This is a very difficult question to answer 



KINKS FOR KNITTERS 51 

without knowing what particular make of ma- 
chine the stocking was knit on. What will 
cause this on one machine may not result in 
any difficulty on another. However, I will en- 
deavor to give the principal causes and reme- 
dies which I have found for this defect and 
Monton may be able to derive some benefit 
from the suggestions. The first and main 
cause for this defect is usually found in the 
needle cylinder not being milled true. If the 
cylinder is perfectly true and all needles mak- 
ing exactly the same stitch, the work must 
come straight. If the slots in the needle cyl- 
inder are tight and the needle does not work 
free it will cause the needle to bind and will 
not allow the stitch cam to act upon the 
needles freely. This causes the stitch cam to 
act more indirectly upon the needle and will 
throw the cam out of line with the sinker ring 
or head of machine. This can only be reme- 
died by remilling or filing out the needle slots 
in the cylinder so as to make the needles work 
free. 

The same trouble may also be caused by the 
outside sinker ring not being in line with the 
inside ring or top of needle cylinder as the 
case may be. The needles being tight in cyl- 
inder the stitch cam or the shank of the 
needle is thrown out of line with the sinkers 
or hook or needle. This, however, is easily 
remedied by resetting the sinker ring. 



52 KINKS FOR KNITTERS 

Frequently, however, the machine is found 
to be perfect and still we find it will not knit 
straight. In such cases the fault lies in the 
yarn being- twisted too tight. This is espe- 
cially true on fine gauge machines where 
single carded yarn is used. In such cases re- 
lief is sometimes secured by steaming the 
yarn. This has a tendency to soften the yarn 
and the strain is taken from the cotton 
fibers. All yarns which have an exceptionally 
hard twist have a tendency to creep. They 
have the same tendency to after being knit as 
before. It is this constant creeping or twist- 
ing of the fibers which causes the goods to 
look as though they were knit crooked, while 
in reality they were knit perfectly straight. 
The best remedy for this trouble is to place a 
take-up roller on the machine, as is used on 
ribbers. By keeping a steady pull on the work 
it will come through perfectly straight. "We 
have equipped all of our machines, on ladies' 
hose, with these rollers and have had no 
trouble with crooked or twisted hose since. 

Dan Bucklin. 



Scrooping of Mercerized Hosiery- 
Kindly inform us how we can obtain a 
scroop finish on fine 240-needle goods with 
soft mercerized yarn, like that on the enclosed 
samples. Knitter (1285). 



KINKS FOR KNITTERS 53. 

In order to obtain a scroop finish on cotton 
proceed as follows: Wash off after dyeing and 
handle 1/4 to 1/2 hour at 120° F. in a bath 
containing 5 to 10 per cent, soap, figured on 
the weight of the goods. Squeeze or hydro- 
extract, but do not wash, then put into a bath 
made up of 5 per cent, tartaric acid or 10 per 
cent, acetic acid, 1/2 hour cold. Then rinse. 

Renmark. 



Trimmers on Loopers 

Would you suggest putting trimmers on 
loopers in a hosiery mill and if so please state 
your reasons? Allen (1111). 

I have found it advisable to use trimmers 
on all loopers in hosiery mills, as there is an 
increase in production of from 50 to 75 per 
cent. The cost of looping is reduced from 50 
to 75 per cent. Unless trimmers are used it is 
necessary for the looper girl to ravel her own 
work, or have extra girls for raveling. If the 
former method is used the looper girl will not 
be able to close more than 20 to 25 dozen per 
day of 180 needle work. The cost of looping 
will be about 7 cents per dozen. If trimmers 
are used the same girls can close from 3 5 to 
4 dozen per da,y at a cost of 4 cents per 
dozen. If extra girls are employed to do 
raveling, one girl will ravel for 2 or 3 loopers 
and the extra cost will be about 2 cents per 



54 KINKS FOR KNITTERS 

dozen. I have found the trimmers to be thor- 
oughly practical and to increase the produc- 
tion of the loopers, reduce the cost of looping 
per dozen, reduce the number of loopers re- 
quired to operate, and reduce the amount of 
help required. Merrill. 



Temperature for Drying Hosiery 

What is the best temperature for drying ho- 
siery previous to boarding? We want the 
goods left in the best condition to secure a 
finish. We make 176 and 200-needle carded 
mule spun and mercerized goods. 

Craigie (1905). 

A low temperature of 70° or 80° F. is best. 
Spread the stockings in an open box drier on 
wire screen shelves and force all the air pos- 
sible through them from a large fan at the 
bottom of the drier. Stir the goods up occa- 
sionally to prevent their drying out in spots. 
This also tends to prevent marks where they 
are creased or folded. This is an excellent 
method, because it allows the boarders to get 
out a good production on a moderate heat. 

To obtain the best results do not let the ho- 
siery lie around wet after it comes from the 
hydro-extractor. Winwick. 



Softener for Dyed Yarns 

What is the best method of making hosiery 
from mercerized yarn? I have been using 






KINKS FOR KNITTERS 55 

dyed yarns but find them harsh and very apt 
to, make defects in the heel and toe. Should 
mercerized yarn be twisted as soft as other 
hosiery yarns? Cherokee (991). 

There is very little difference in the manu- 
facturing of hosiery, either in the natural or 
the dyed yarn. The way the work runs de- 
pends upon what class of yarn is used and 
whether it is properly twisted and softened. 
Anyone buj'ing mercerized yarn will find it 
very difficult to get the yarn to run well on 
the machine. I have found by rewinding and 
using the following softener that the yarn will 
run much better: 

8 lbs. Olive Oil Soap, 

1 gal. Lard Oil (Bleached), 

1 lb. Sal Soda. 

Add 5 gals, water. Boil for one-half 

hour and then add water to make 

20 gallons. 

A tin or wooden roll driven from belt on 
winder shaft is immersed in a trough filled 
with the softener and extending the length of 
the winder. The roll is revolved slowly. The 
slower the roll revolves the less softener it 
feeds to the yarn. The roll should run in the 
opposite direction to that of the yarn. I have 
used this device on cotton and woolen yarns 
for a number of years and always found it 
satisfactory. It is better to make hosiery in 



56 KINKS FOR KNITTERS 

the grey and dye in the goods, as this gives a 
much better fabric. The twist should be soft 
hosiery twist, both in the single before twist- 
ing and in the ply after twisting. In this way 
better results are obtained in mercerizing and 
the yarn runs much better on the machines. 
I have mercerized single yarns from 8s to 60& 
with very good results, but it is very slow 
work and costs double the price of ply yarns. 

Ravenswood. 

In making hosiery from mercerized yarn the 
best method is to knit it in the natural and 
dye the goods after. Dyed yarns are usually 
harsh and causes more defects in the knitting 
and do not take as good a finish as when the 
goods are dj'ed after knitting. Single twisted 
yarns can be mercerized. The twist can be as 
soft as any other hosiery yarn, in fact a hard 
twisted mercerized yarn does not show the 
luster as well as a soft twist. In knitting mer- 
cerized yarn very close attention should be 
given to the tension on the yarn and gauging 
the stitch on the machine. Profile. 

"Cherokee" is having the same trouble that 
most manufacturers experience in trying to 
use dyed yarns. The same trouble is always 
experienced with dyed yarns, regardless of the 
quality of the yarn, whether mercerized, lisle 



KINKS FOR KNITTERS S7 

or common carded yarns. In my opinion it is 
caused more from the dye than from the yarn 
itself. It is almost impossible to secure as 
good results in the knitting from dyed yarns 
as from undyed or natural yarn. The process 
of dyeing will necessarily make the yarn hard 
and wiry, and hard to knit. Much depends on 
the process used for dyeing. Some processes 
make the yarn much more harsh and hard 
than others. In latch needle machines consid- 
erable trouble is usually caused by the dyestuff 
coming off and filling the needles, thus mak- 
ing the latches work hard. This alone will 
cause considerable trouble in heels and toes. 
In cases where dyed yarns are used the 
needles should be looked over at least once a 
week and the latches made to work freely. 

Where dyed yarns are used, the rivets in 
the latches are constantly working loose. The^ 
sinkers become badly worn at the point where 
the yarn is drawn over them by the needle. 
These needles and sinkers must be replaced 
with new ones to insure good work. Where 
it is possible to do so I would advise that 
goods be knit in the white or natural color 
and dyed afterwards. In this way better re- 
sults are obtained from the knitting machines 
and the cost of manufacturing is reduced to a 
considerable extent, as there will be less sec- 
onds. There will also be a reduction in the 



.58 KINKS FOR KNITTERS 

number of needles used and also' in the wear 
©n machines. 

The cost of dyeing knit goods is also con- 
siderably less than the cost of dyeing yarn. In 
small mills not equipped for dyeing it is some- 
times necessary to use dyed yarns. In such 
cases considerable care should be taken in 
purchasing the yarns, as dyed yarns not prop- 
erly treated must necessarily cause a great 
amount of trouble to the manufacturer. In 
such cases it is usually much more satisfac- 
tory to buy undyed skein yarn and have it 
dyed. In buying dyed yarns through the com- 
mission agents, there is no way of telling 
where the yarn is dyed. If the yarn proves 
defective, it is a hard matter to locate the re- 
sponsibility. On the other hand, by buying 
yarn in the grey, and having it dyed, there is 
the advantage of being able to choose the 
dyer and methods of dyeing. If the dye proves 
defective the fault is more easily corrected. 
As before stated, however, all dyed yarns will 
cause more or less trouble in knitting and 
especially in heels and toes. Better results are 
usually obtained by rewinding and running the 
yarn over a softening preparation, made from 
soap, warm water and pure olive oil. If im- 
possible to rewind the yarn the same results 
may be obtained by attaching a small tin cup 
on top of yarn stand and placing a woolen rag 



KINKS FOR KNITTERS 59 

well saturated with the softening preparation 
and over which the yarn runs. The woolen 
cloth can be kept well saturated by keeping 
the cup filled with the preparation. Great 
care must be taken in preparing the softener, 
and only pure olive oil should be used, as 
other grades may spot the goods. This prep- 
aration will have a tendency to liven up the 
yarn and also lubricate the needles so that the 
latches will work more easily. 

In regard to amount of twist in mercerized 
yarns, a slack twist will run better and give 
less trouble in knitting that a hard twist, but 
will not take as nice a finish. As the finish is 
usually what the manufacturer is looking for 
in mercerized goods, they usually prefer a 
hard twist The more twist there is in the 
yarn, the greater the luster by the process of 
mercerizing. Dan Bucklin. 



Removing Mildew 



Is there anything that will take mildew out 
of yarn? We have some yarn which has been 
mildewed and are going to bleach it. Would 
this be the proper method to pursue? 

Carolina (1181). 

Bleaching the yarn will remove the mildew 
providing it has not gone too deep into the 
fiber. For removing the mildew without 
going to the expense of bleaching mix a solu- 
tion of one pound of chloride of lime to ten 



60 KINKS FOR KNITTERS 

or twelve gallons of water. Steep the yarn in« 
this solution for ten to fourteen hours, accord- 
ing to the amount of mildew on the material. 
If the goods are heavily mildewed, make the 
solution a little stronger, say one and one-half 
pounds of chloride to twelve gallons of water, 
or let the yarn steep a little longer. I would 
advise trying a small quantity of the yarn 
with this solution at the first strength, as 
there is no danger of this mixture making the 
yarn tender. Do not use the sediment of this 
solution, let the mixture settle and use the 
clear liquor. 

If the goods have gone beyond the first 
stages of mildew, a stronger solution will be 
required to remove it. The first stage of mil- 
dew is pink, then red, and then changing to 
green and black with a fringe. After the spots 
are removed wash the goods thoroughly so 
that no trace of the chloride is left. Then 
either bleach to a white or dry the goods for 
other processes. Delco. 



Pressing Half Hose to Give Good Luster 

Kindly give us some information on the 
pressing of men's mercerized half hose, and 
particularly the method used in retaining or 
adding to the high luster. Canton (1207). 

There has been much discussion of this 
question, builders of different presses main- 



KINKS FOR KNITTERS 6l 

•taining that the best results can be obtained 
by the use of their respective machines. Some 
manufacturers use the hot, hollow plate press, 
some, the roller press; others, the cold plate 
press; and others the steam, paper press. 

In my own experience I have been able to 
secure a better luster by the use of the hot 
press. At the present time we are pressing 
the goods first on the roller press, then press- 
ing them the second time on the hot, steam 
paper press at a temperature of 155° to 165° 
F. It is important to keep the press at a uni- 
form temperature, as I have found that too 
much heat has a tendency to bake the goods, 
giving them a hard and dead finish. The best 
results are obtained at about 160° F. 

The luster of the goods is sometimes lost by 
the action of the dye. I have found that the 
dyeing process has more to do with the finish 
of the goods than the pressing. The luster 
once destroyed in the dyeing can never be re- 
stored by pressing. There are also numerous 
•other conditions which affect the luster to a 
great extent, such as quality of yarn, twist and 
tension and gauge of goods. 

The three grades of mercerized yarns most 
generally used at present are combed peeler, 
combed Egyptian and combed Sea Island. Of 
these grades the combed peeler is the cheap- 
est and will show the poorest luster. The 
combed Egyptian is the medium grade and the 



62 KINKS FOR KNITTERS 

one most used. This grade will give a better 
finish than the combed peeler. The combed 
Sea Island is the best grade, having a long, 
staple and gives a much better luster than any 
of the other yarns. It will also be found that 
a hard twisted gassed yarn will give a better 
finish than a soft twist. The goods will be 
much smoother, as there are no loose fibers. 

The knitting also has much to do with the 
finish, and a firmly knit hose will take a much 
better finish than a fabric loosely knit from 
the same yarn. In order to obtain the best 
possible results I would advise the use of mer- 
cerized combed Sea Island yarn with a very 
hard twist, knit quite firm, dyed with devel- 
oped black, and pressed first on the roller' 
press and again on the hot press at a tem- 
perature of 160° F. Merrill. 



Sewing Tops on Hosiery 

Can rib tops for cheap grade socks, 84- 
needle goods, be sewed on? We have modern 
machines for knitting, but have trouble in get- 
ting the work done satisfactorily. Please state 
if this is ever done and what class of sewing 
machines will be required. 

Marcellus (1205). 

Tops are often sewed on in making this 
class of goods. For all cheap 76 and 84-needle 
goods selling at 60 to 70 cents per dozen it is 
necessary to sew on the tops in order to cut 



KINKS FOR KNITTERS 63 

down on the cost of production. In most cases 
the toes are also sewed in place of looping. By 
this method it is possible to reduce the cost 
from 4 to 6 cents per dozen. However, on the 
better grades of work it is not advisable to 
sew on the tops, as it is impossible to get as 
smooth work as is obtained by transferring. 
Any of the standard makes of sewing ma- 
chines can be used successfully. Merrill. 



Knitting Bicycle Stockings 

What are the sizes of ribbers and footers 
required for making a boys' bicycle stocking, 
to be used for boys from six to twelve years 
of age, and to weigh not more than 2 1/2 lbs. 
to the dozen, using a 2/12s or l/6s cotton 
yarn. Knitter (1236). 

The machines used for the manufacture of 
bicycle stockings will depend largely upon the 
style of the stocking desired. There are sev- 
eral patterns which may be used in this class 
of work and these each require different size 
and gauge. For example we have the plain 
knit one and one ribbed; also the tuck stitch 
one and one ribbed. We also have the plain 
knit, two and one ribbed; also the plain knit 
two and two ribbed. 

The most common grade is the tuck stitch 
one and one rib. The stockings for a 12 year 
old boy must necessarily weigh more than for 



•64 KINKS FOR KNITTERS 

a 6 year old. I assume, however, that the 
goods are to average 2 1/2 lbs. per dozen. The 
correct sizes for the different ages are as fol- 
lows: 

Age 6 to 7 size, 6 leg, size 6 1/2 foot. 

Age 7 to 8 size, 7 leg, size 7 and 7 1/2 foot. 

Age 8 to 9 size, 7 leg, size 7 1/2 foot. 

Age 9 to 10 size, 8 leg, size 8 foot. 

Size 10 to 12 size, 8 leg, size 8 1/2 foot. 

From this it will be seen that it is neces- 
sary to have only three sizes for the legs, 6, 7 
and 8, which necessitates three sizes of rib- 
bers. The correct sizes of the ribbers, number 
of needles and gauges are as follows: 

Size 6 = 3 3/4 in. diam., 24 ga. dial, 18 ga. 

cyl., 6 6 needles dial, 66 needles cyl. 
Size 7 = 4 in. diam., 24 ga. dial, 18 ga. cyl., 

74 needles dial, 74 needles cyl. 
Size 8 = 4 1/2 in. diam., 24 ga. dial, 18 ga. 

cyl., 8 4 needles dial, 84 needles cyl. 

It is necessary to knit feet of all sizes from 
6 1/2 to 8 1/2. This, however, necessitates 
having only three different sizes of footers, as 
sizes 7 and 7 1/2 can be made on the same 
machine, also 8 and 8 1/2 on one machine. 
The correct sizes of machines, also the gauge 
and number of needles for footing on this 
class of work are as follows: 



KINKS FOR KNITTERS t>5 

Size 6 = 2 1/2 in. diameter, 24 gauge, 84 

needles. 
Size 7 1/2 and 7 = 2 3/4 in. diameter, 24 

gauge, 9 6 needles. 
Size 8 and 8 1/2=3 1/4 in. diameter, 24 

gauge, 112 needles. 

Both plain and tuck stitch can be knit on 
the above machines with equally good results. 
If a two and one rib or two and two rib is 
desired the same footers can be used and the 
cylinders and dials in the ribbers only would 
have to be changed. If a two and two rib is 
desired the correct number of needles would 
be as follows: 

Size 6 = 3 3/4 in., 36 gauge needles, 70 needles 

dial, 70 needles cylinder. 
Size 7 = 4 in., 36 gauge needles, 78 needles 

dial, 78 needles cylinder. 
Size 8 = 4 1/2 in., 36 gauge needles, 88 

needles dial, 88 needles cylinder. 

Merrill. 



Finishing Mercerized Hosiery 

What is the best method for finishing mer- 
cerized hosiery? Would you recommend a hot 
or cold pressing or a combination of both? 

Sampson (1076). 

Mercerized hosiery should not be allowed to 

remain around the mill for any length of time, 

or tied up in bundles, as this will cause creases 



66 KINKS FOR KNITTERS 

which no amount of pressing- will take out.. 
When the goods are dyed and well extracted 
they should be boarded at once, otherwise the 
stockings will not show the luster they would 
if boarded while damp. They are boarded and 
dried in a steam press and drier. If proper 
care is taken the dryer will not injure the 
delicate shades as much as is the case from 
coming in direct contact with the iron in the 
steam press. The goods are then mended and 
placed between card boards and put in a hot 
press which has hollow plates. The steam is 
turned on for an hour, after which let the 
stockings cool before taking out. Avoid too 
much heat, as this is bad for the shades. 

Henry Nevis. 



New Sizes of Men's Union Suits 

Can you give me the latest sizes for men's 
union suits? Weymouth (1281). 

It is impossible to fit all men from any line 
of combination suits. Given two suits the 
same size, one can take two men and fit them 
perfectly so far as the body is concerned, and 
at the same time find that either the legs or 
the arms, or both, may be too long for one 
man and too short for the other. So long as 
men do not grow uniformly, so long will it be 
impossible to fit every figure with suits made 
uniformly. The most progressive manufactur- 
ers have determined upon their scale of meas- 



KINKS FOR KNITTERS 6j 

urements by measuring hundreds of figures 

and striking an average. 

Since publishing the scale of sizes last year 

it has been found that improvements could 

be made and that a larger number of men can 

be fitted from suits made after the following 

scale: 

Center shoulder Length Width of 

Width, to crotch. sleeve. Inseiun. Leg- 

6 1/2 
7 

7 1/2 
8 

81/2 
9 
10 

Sizes of Hosiery 

Will you publish the standard lengths of 
ribbed hosiery, cotton and woolen, in all sizes 
from 4 to 10*4 inches, measuring from bottom 
of heel to top of welt? Also state proper 
length of rib top on half hose and length of 
leg in sizes %]/ 2 to liy 2 inches? 

Adams (1088). 

The standard lengths of ribbed hosiery from 
top of welt to the bottom of heel is as follows: 

Sizes: 4, 4V., 5, 5V 2 , 6, 6%, 7, 7V 2 , 8, 8%, 9 
9%, 10, 10%. 

Inches: 12, 12, 15, 15, 18, 18, 21, 21, 24, 24, 
27, 27, 29, 29. 

On half hose the ribbed top should run 5% 
inches long for all sizes and the length of the 
leg without ribbed top should measure: 



34 


13. • . 


29 . 


19 


26 1/2 


36 

38 


14 

15 


so. ... 

31 


-20 

20 

. .21 


27 1/2 

29 


40 


k; 


33 


. . .2!) 


4?r 


17 

IS 


34 

35 


21 .... 

•> > 


28 


44 


28 


46 


1!) 


36 


22 


. .28 













68 KINKS FOR KNITTERS 

Sizes: 9%, 10, 10y 2 , 11, 11%. 
Inches: lYz, 8, 8%, 9, 9%. 

Fillmore. 



Sizes of Two Piece Ribbed Underwear 

Will you please state the sizes that are used 
for the plain 1 by 1 ribbed underwear? 

Weston (1064). 

The following is the scale of sizes given by 
the Western Dry Goods Jobbers' Association 
for men's plain 1 by 1 ribbed underwear. On 
this class of goods a stretch of 25 per cent, in 
■width is allowed, which allowance may be in- 
creased up to 30 per cent, as the goods run 
lighter in weight, or decreased with the more 
rigid fabrics: 
Shirts 30. . . .32. . . .34. . . .36. . . .38. . . .40. . . .42. . . .44. . . .46 



Neck 


16.. 


..16.. 


..17.. 


..17.. 


..18.. 


..19.. 


..20 


Chest 


28.. 


..29.. 


..30.. 


..32.. 


. 34.. 


..35.. 


..37 


Length 


32.. 


..33.. 


..34.. 


..34.. 


..34.. 


..35.. 


..35 


Sleeve 


23.. 


..23.. 


..23.. 


..23.. 


..23.. 


..23.. 


..23 



Arm holes 15 16 16 17. 

Drawers. 



Waist 


..30.. 


..32.. 


..34.. 


..36 . 


..38.. 


..40.. 


..42.. 


..44.... 


Hip 


..29 . 


..30.. 


..31.. 


..32.. 


..34.. 


..35.. 


..37.. 


. 38.... 


Thigh 


..16.. 


..17.. 


..18.. 


..19.. 


..19 . 


..20.. 


..21.. 


..21.... 


Front rise.. 


..13.. 


..13.. 


..13.. 


..14.. 


..14.. 


..14.. 


..15.. 


..15.... 


Back rise. 


..17.. 


..17.. 


..18.. 


..19.. 


..19 . 


..20 . 


..20.. 


..21.... 


Inseam 


..31.. 


..31.. 


..32.. 


..32.. 


..32.. 


..32.. 


..32.. 


..32.... 


Suits. 


















Trunk 


..62.. 


..I>2.. 


..64.. 


..66.. 


..67.. 


..68.. 


..69.. 


..70... 



Fillmore. 






KINKS FOR KNITTERS 69 

Stains on Sweater Fabrics 

We enclose two pieces of sweater fabrics, 
which you will note are composed of cotton 
and worsted. The cotton, for some reason or 
other, seems to be stained through the fabric. 
We cannot understand this as it seems to be 
in the sleeves of the fabric only, the body part 
being - entirely clear. Can you state the cause 
and remedy? Galox (1219). 

The dark spots or discoloration are due to 
the presence of some acid, possibly sulphuric 
acid or acetic acid, which has accidentally wet 
the portions of the fabric indicated, and which 
changes the bright color of the red to a dirty 
brown or black. The cause of this defect 
must be looked for in the dyehouse. The rem- 
edy for the damaged garments is to rinse 
them off in a bath containing a small quan- 
tity of ordinary ammonia — say 1 quart to 250 
gallons of water. The dyestuff used in dyeing 
these goods is the well known benzopurpurine, 
possibly shaded with Congo red, both colors 
being extremely sensitive to dilute acids. 

Berwick. 



Sizes of Sweater Coats 

Please give us the standard sizes of men's, 
ladies' and misses' sweater coats. 

Buxton (1176). 

The following scale of sizes of sweaters are 
accepted as being correct. These are of course 



70 KINKS FOR KNITTERS 

subject to change as regards lengths of the 
ladies' goods, as these are being bought in 
lengths of from 27 inches on 40 up to 3 9 
inches and longer: 

Men's Coats 



Sizes. 


Width. 


Lengtl 


i. Sleeves. 


Armhole 


34 .... 


15 


... 25 . 


19 . 




9 


36 


16 


... 26 . 


20 . 




9 1/2 


38 


17 


... 27 . 


20 




9 1/2 


40 


18 


27 


21 . 




10 


42 


19 


... 27 . 


21 . 




10 


44 


20 


... «>s 


22 




. ...10 1/2 

10 1/2 


46 


21 28 . 

Ladies' 


22 . 

Coats 




















Arm- 


Sizes. 


Bust. Waist, 


Length. Sleeves, hole 


34 .... 


16 


14 .... 


.... 27 


. 20 


7 


36 .... 


17 


15 . .. 


.... 28 


. 20 


8 


38 ... 


18 


15 .... 


....29 


. 21 


8 


40 ... 


19 


16 .... 


-. . 30 


. 22 


9 


42 ... 


20 


17 .... 


.... 31 


. 22 


....... 9 


44 . 


.... 21 


18 .... 


.... 32 


. 22 


10 




Misses' 


Coats 






Size. 


Width. 


Length. 




Sleeve 


20.... 


10 . 




14 .... 




16 


22.... 


11 




16 .... 




16 


24.... 


12 . 




18 .... 




17 


26. . . . 


13 




20 .... 




17 


28 .... 


14 




22 .... 




18 


30.... 


Uk. 




24 .... 




18 


32.... 


15 




25 .... 




19 


34. . . . 


16 




26 .... 




19 



We are in receipt of your May issue and 
thank you for the information regarding the 



KINKS FOR KNITTERS ^1 

sizes of sweater coats. At the same time, we 
call your attention to the fact that the party 
who gave you these sizes evidently forgot that 
ladies' and misses' coats come in double 
breasted and single breasted sizes. 

Buxton (1195). 

I do not see that the proportions of ladies' 
and misses' sweaters would be any different 
for double than for single breasted. True 
there would be the additional cloth in the 
front of the garment to allow it to lap over, 
but the measurements are all taken on gar- 
ments buttoned up, and the fact that a gar- 
ment is double breasted would not alter its 
length, width, length of arm, or size of arm- 
hole. Fillmore. 



Sizes of Boys' Sweaters 

Please give us the standard sizes for boys' 
sweaters, sizes 24 to 3 4 inclusive. 

Victor (1192). 

The most acceptable line of boys' sweaters 
that we get are made on the following scale of 

sizps: 

Size H 26 28 30 :;•_> 34 

Length 15 1/2 1(5 1/2 17 1/2 18 1/2 19 1/2 20 1/2 

Width 11 12 13 14 15 16 

Length of sleeve.... 13 14 15 16 17 18 

Size of Armhole 5 5 B 6 (i 6 

Fillmore. 



J2. KINKS FOR KNITTERS 

Assortment of Sizes of Sweater Coats 

What is the correct assortment of sizes for 
men's, women's and children's sweater coats? 

Knitter (1942). 

After an experience of some years handling 
coat sweaters, we find that the following scales 
of sizes sell out fairly even: 

28 30 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 

Men's 24321 

Ladies' 133311 

Children's 2 3 3 4 

In handling ladies' coat sweaters we notice 
a heavier sale on the small sizes in red, as 
against the larger sizes, but this is counter- 
balanced by selling more of the larger sizes in 
grey. Fillmore. 



Curly Knit Goods 

We are having difficulty with the curling of 
fine knit goods, either silk or cotton for ladies' 
long gloves. We have tried pasting but this 
has spotted the goods. We would appreciate 
very much some suggestions for remedying the 
trouble. Yosmite (1014). 

All flat knitted cloth, that is, cloth knit with 
one row of needles, will have a tendency to 
curl. Without starch it will be impossible to 
get fiat cloth to lie as smooth as rib cloth or 
cloth knit with two rows of needles. It will 
be necessary to boil the cloth, extract and then 



KINKS FOR KNITTERS 7$ 

dry over drying frames which wind the cloth 
back in a roll as fast as dried. Another 
method is to steam the cloth thoroughly, dry 
out and iron over hot cylinders, rolling the 
cloth up as on a drying machine. This method 
is probably the better way for mercerized and 
silk goods, as it has a tendency to put more 
luster on the goods. Badger. 

As a general thing, all knitted cloth if cut 
just as it comes from the knitting machine, 
will curl on the sides or edges. The cause is 
inherent to the fabric. A series of loops one 
interlaced with the other both above and be- 
low impart elasticity to the fabric, whereas 
woven cloth is composed of two sets of straight 
threads intersecting each other at right angles. 

In many cases knit cloth as it comes from 
the machine is first wet or scoured and then 
dried; this prevents curling in cutting. 
Woolen knit cloth is sometimes cut in the 
grease as it is taken from the knitting ma- 
chine; this curls also, both at the edges and 
also across top and bottom, but the edges are 
straightened in the process of seaming. Silk 
knit cloth curls more than cotton or wool: 
This I think is due to the wiry nature of the 
silk thread. 

Where silk and cotton knit cloths are cut as 
taken from the knitting machine, there are 



74 KINKS FOR KNITTERS 

two ways to overcome the curling. One is to 
wet the cloth thoroughly and then roll it over 
a drying machine. The other way is to steam 
the roll of cloth until it is thoroughly damp- 
ened. This can be done by making a steam- 
box or chest with a perforated false bottom 
with steam pipes underneath. This box or 
chest can be made large enough to hold sev- 
eral rolls of cloth at a time. Then the steam 
is turned on for at least half an hour, pro- 
vision being made to carry off the condensed 
steam so that only the steam comes in contact 
with the rolls. Water might spot the cloth. 

The roll after steaming could be run over 
a turning machine, passing through a spreader 
so as to have the cloth of a uniform width on 
the cutting table. Running the knit cloth over 
hot cylinder rollers would not prevent the curl- 
ing unless the cloth was first dampened by 
steaming. Lafayette. 



Gain or Loss in Dyeing 

After knitting a roll of carded peeler yarn 
on the spring-needle machine and then send- 
ing it to a dyehouse to be stained Egyptian, 
would there be any loss or gain in the weight 
of the roll, and if so, what percentage? 

Stanley (1065). 

The loss of shrinkage in the dyeing of 
carded peeler in Egyptian stain, or in fact any 



KINKS FOR KNITTERS 75 

of the prevailing shades on knit goods that are 
dyed mostly with a direct color process, will be 
approximately 3 per cent. If it is necessary to 
first bleach the goods to obtain the required 
clearness or brightness of shade the loss in 
weight will be 2 per cent, more, or a total 
shrinkage of 5 per cent. Morocco. 



Duplicating a Knit Fabric 

We are making a light weight bleached 
ribbed vest and want to know how to set a 
knitting machine to make a certain webbing. 
We are enclosing a piece of webbing, No. 2, 
that we want to make, also a piece, No. 1, of 
what we are knitting. We like the loose, flat 
stitch in the webbing desired and would like 
to know what change to make in our machine 
to produce the result. Portland (1033). 

I have thoroughly examined the two sam- 
ples of knit fabric, Nos. 1 and 2, and find that 
as far as the knitting goes they are identical. 
No. 1 on the top end is a plain 1 by 1 rib; the 
lower part is made with alternate rows of 
plain and tuck stitches, 1 by 1 rib. 

No. 2 has alternate rows of plain and tuck 
stitches, 1 by 1 rib. 

In No. 1 the wales of the tuck stitch rib lie 
close together, and in sample No. 2 they are 
open and apart. It is this effect of the wales 
of the rib show ing up better that I understand 
your correspondent desires to obtain. It is not 



j6 KINKS FOR KNITTERS 

obtained in the knitting of the fabric, but in 
the finishing of the cloth or garment. 

If No. 1 is stretched and held apart it looks 
exactly like No. 2. To produce the same effect 
in No. 2 the garment should be boarded so as 
to stretch it apart; when dry it will remain so. 

I am of opinion that No. 2 is not part of a 
ribbed vest like No. 1, where the machine 
changes from 1 by 1 rib plain stitch for the 
waist part to 1 by 1 rib tuck stitch for the 
body, because the plain part of the knitting 
has a tendency to draw together the wales of 
the rib in the tuck part, the plain part being 
narrower than the tuck part. I examined 
some ribbed vests recently like No. 1 and 
found them to look the* same. I also exam- 
ined some corset waist covers that looked the 
same as No. 2, including the finish of the sew- 
ing machine on the bottom. 

The ribbed vests had about an inch in length 
of plain stitch at the bottom, whereas No. 2 
has the tuck stitch clear to the bottom. From 
my investigations I have come to the conclu- 
sion that the cloth of sample No. 2 is made all 
1 by 1 rib tuck stitch and that the machine 
does not change from tuck stitch to plain 
stitch as desired for shaping the ribbed vest 
as that which produces No. 1 does. 

If No. 2 had been the same as No. 1, part 
plain and part tuck stitch, and still showed 
the different effects, then I should have had 



KINKS FOR KNITTERS JJ 

4o arrive at some other explanation for the 
difference. My conclusion is. that the cloth of 
.No. 2 is made all tuck 1 by 1 rib and tubular; 
.that it is bleached in the roll, and in drying is 
run over a spreader to open up the wales of 
the rib; and that then the corset waist covers 
are cut out from the cloth thus dried, which 
of course remains as shown in sample No. 2. 

The only way in which the effect of No. 2 
could be produced in the knitting would be to 
have the feeds which make the tuck stitch 
courses make a shorter stitch than the plain 
■courses, as the tuck stitch loops are of course 
larger than the all plain loops. To do this, 
the stitch cams of the tuck feeds would have 
to be equipped with a movable cam, the same 
as is used on this class of machinery for mak- 
ing what is known as a slack course in ho- 
siery for looping purposes. 

This of course could easily be done, and 
operated automatically by the chain which on 
the machine operates the changes for all plain 
work to tuck work. At the same time the ma- 
chine is changing from plain to tuck, the 
stitch cams of the tuck feeds, which are every 
alternate feed, would be operated upon to 
shorten the stitch, and in like manner oper- 
ated to lengthen the stitch again, when chang- 
ing to all plain work. 

If the tuck stitch is shortened so that the 



yS KINKS FOR KNITTERS 

loops of the tuck stitches would not be any 
larger than the all plain loops, then the wales 
of the ribs would have a tendency to be open 
and apart like No. 2 without decreasing the 
elasticity of the fabric. 

Your correspondent can easily make a test 
by knitting the fabric in the manner just de- 
scribed, by adjusting the stitch cams of the 
tuck feeds to make a shorter stitch, and then 
knit a piece of cloth all tuck, 1 by 1 rib, with- 
out changing to all plain 1 by 1 rib. If the 
effect proves to be just what he wishes to pro- 
duce, the machine can then be made to do the 
work automatically. Lafayette. 



Percentage of Cotton in Merino Yarn 

How can I determine accurately the per- 
centage of cotton or wool in merino yarn? 

Rexford (1242). 

The percentage of cotton in merino yarn is 
determined in the following manner: Weigh 
a fair sized sample of the yarn, then sew it up 
in a small cheesecloth bag and boil the sample 
for 15 minutes in a 10 per cent, solution of 
caustic potash. Rinse the sample well, then 
squeeze out the surplus water by wringing in 
a cloth. What is left of the sample after this- 
treatment is cotton, which should be exposed 
to the open air until dry and then weighed. A 
comparison of the weight before the treatment. 



KINKS FOR KNITTERS 79 

with the weight afterwards will indicate the 
percentage of cotton in the yarn. Ex. A 
sample of merino yarn weighs 20 grains before 
boiling out, and 7 grains afterwards, find the 
percentage of cotton. 7 ~ 20 = 35 per cent, 
cotton. 



Marking Knit Goods to Stand Bleaching 

Can you give us any information in regard 
to marking knit goods that we have to bleach? 
We have never found a satisfactory method of 
marking the cloth before it goes into the kier. 

Salem (1052). 

"Salem" can overcome this difficulty by 
using coal tar diluted with carbolic acid to a 
consistency of thick cream. This will with- 
stand the bleaching process. It is used with 
stamps and a pad. The pad is made in the 
following manner: Get a shallow box the size 
of the stamp required, put in a layer of thick 
felt at the bottom, spread over this felt a thin 
layer of diluted coal tar, then cover with a 
piece of rag or waste knit goods. It is then 
ready for use. Press the stamp on the top 
layer of cloth until the tar comes through on 
the stamp, then use it on your goods. The top 
cloth is to prevent too much tar from getting 
on the stamp and blurring the marks. Care 
.should be taken to keep the stamps clean, as 
the flakes from the goods stick to the stamp 
and thus make the stamping thick and 



80 KINKS FOR KNITTERS 

blurred. I have blocks made of different 
shapes and sizes, with oval, triangle or dia- 
mond outlines for different purposes and the 
letter or figures are made on little blocks of 
wood which are inserted in the larger block. 
A thumb screw on the side holds them in 
place. Dulcimer. 

I have read with interest the question and 
answer regarding the marking of knit goods 
which appeared in the April issue. You have 
given a good formula for marking goods so 
that the marks will stand the bleach. I have 
always instructed knit goods manufacturers in 
this locality to use coal tar, as that is the only 
material that will stand the bleaching process. 
"Dulcimer" recommends the use of wood 
blocks for stamping the letters or figures. 
These blocks are good as far as they go, but 
I have made the stamps of brass for years. 
They can be made either solid or with the 
letters adjustable by a thumb screw. The tar 
does not have any effect on the metal, which 
will last three times as long as wood. This is 
merely my experience. I have been in the 
business only forty years. A. M. Michael. 



Making Knit Goods "Unshrinkable 

What are the methods for making knit 
goods unshrinkable? Kingman (2119). 



KINKS FOR KNITTERS 8l 

It is after the fulling process that the goods 
are subjected to the chemical process to 
render them what is termed unshrinkable. 
There are several methods used, but perhaps 
the best known is the chlorine and acid treat- 
ment. Chlorine gas, in its commercial state, is 
embodied in what is technically known as 
chloride of lime, and to obtain free chlorine the 
following process is necessary: In a wooden 
vat free from iron or other minerals in the 
form of nails, screws, etc., dissolve the 
chloride of lime in clean cold water, breaking 
the lumps* in order to free the chloride or 
green gas, as it is termed. Do this carefully 
and when all the gas is liberated by stirring, 
etc., let it stand for a sufficient length of time 
to allow the lime to settle. Then the clear 
water should have a greenish tint. Skim off 
any floating substance that may have risen to 
the top and let it again settle. It is essential 
to cover up while settling in order to keep 
out all dirt. One pound of chloride of lime is 
added to every 10 gallons of water in the vat. 

Arrid Treatment for White Goods. First 
treat in a sulphuric acid bath in an ordinary 
wooden vat with, sufficient water to cover the 
goods. The temperature of the water is 
raised to about 170° to 175° F. Use 6 1/2 
ounces to every 10 pounds wool goods to be 
treated. Mix the acid well with the water be- 
fore putting in the goods, and when the goods 



82 KINKS FOR KNITTERS 

are in keep them under the liquor for about 
30 minutes, turning occasionally. 

Certain yarns of hard spun qualities may be 
treated as already explained for whites, but in 
this class of goods color has to be taken into 
account and it may be necessary to reduce the 
strength of the sulphuric acid to 5 ounces for 
every 10 pounds of goods, and also to reduce 
the temperature to 120° F. For soft woolen 
goods it is best to use hydrochloric instead of 
sulphuric acid, treating in the same way as 
explained. It is impossible to adopt a fixed 
rule for the strength of the acid, as it must be 
varied according to qualities, and should in 
all cases be sufficient to give the desired effect 
as to shrinkage without affecting the natural 
color of the fabrics. 

Having treated the goods in the acid bath, 
take them out and pass through squeezing 
rollers to extract all excessive moisture, tak- 
ing care to save the liquor. The acid liquor 
may be used again by adding acid to bring it 
to the required strength. 

Prepare another bath of water at about 80° 
F. to cover the goods. Add to this the clear 
liquor from the chlorine vat, taking care not 
to disturb the lime in any way. The strength 
of the chlorine may be taken as an average at 
one pound of chloride of lime for each 10 
pounds of goods. One pound of chloride of 
lime is used to every 10 gallons of water, 



KINKS FOR KNITTERS 83 

which is required for 10 pounds of goods. 
Keep the goods well under the water for say 
15 minutes, with occasional turning. As 
chlorine in excess will injure the wool fibers, 
no greater strength than is absolutely neces- 
sary to give the result desired should be used, 
and for fine goods often less will be required, 
as the liquor permeates the fabric quicker. 
Soft woolen yarns require the least strength. 
Soft spun yarns often require only a mild, 
treatment, but coarse, heavy goods require 
more than the standard strength. 

After taking goods from the chlorine bath, 
wash out carefully in lukewarm water, adding 
sufficient soap to clear off any lime remaining. 
Some goods will require more soap than others 
to give them the soft feel desired. 

Treat dyed goods carefully by reducing the 
strength of the acid and chlorine liquors, and 
also the temperature of the baths, leaving the 
goods in the liquor for a longer time. For 
delicate colors use a cold hydrochloric acid and 
chlorine bath. The goods can remain in the 
liquor for some time until the desired result is 
obtained. 

The goods when taken from the bath should 
be carefully washed to free them from all lime 
or other foreign substances that may remain, 
and well rinsed in lukewarm water, then run 
through squeezing rollers and extracted. 



84 KINKS FOR KNITTERS 

In. drying the goods avoid an excess of heat 
and have good ventilation, because while 
moisture remains further chemical action may 
take place. After the goods leave the drier it 
is essential that they be damped before press- 
ing. The usual way is to use sheets. These 
are made of soft woven cloth especially 
adapted for holding moisture. This is cut into 
pieces, say 4 feet long by 2 feet wide. They 
are well saturated with water and left a few 
minutes for the water to become evenly dis- 
tributed. Then a sheet is laid straight and as 
many hose laid on as will lie together without 
overlapping. Another sheet is then laid over 
same and another lot of goods placed on it. 
This is repeated till a sufficient quantity is so 
laid, then they are turned over, taken out and 
another lot damped. F. W. Herrington. 



Knitting Neckties 



Do knitted neckties keep their shape? Can 
an ordinary hosiery or underwear mill make 
this class of goods without difficulty? How 
are some styles made? Barker (2114). 

Knit ties of pure silk and silk and mercer- 
ized cotton are very popular. They are made 
in a large number of very attractive designs 
and effects and of any color that one would 
desire. Another good point in their favor is 
that they are made so as to slip easily through 



KINKS FOR KNITTERS 85 

the turned down collar. They keep their 
shape after they are tied up as well as, if not 
better than, any other silk tie. 

Tie knitting is being taken up by many 
manufacturers who never have had anything 
to do with knitting machinery of any kind. 
These ties cannot be made in an ordinary ho- 
siery or underwear mill as ordinarily equipped 
and it would entail quite an expense to pur- 
chase special machinery such as is adapted to 
the handling of silk, dyeing and winding. 
Owing to the variety of colors used knitted 
ties are more profitably made by such manu- 
facturing firms as are using silk yarn all the 
time. 

These ties are knit on latch needle ma- 
chines of 10, 12 or 14 gauge and with 1 1/2 to 
2 1/4 inch cylinders. Although the patterns 
are complicated and silk yarns are difficult to 
run, any knitter who has made hosiery or un- 
derwear would have very little difficulty in 
making good at the tie knitting business. 

An ordinary plain tie is made with needles 
so arranged as to have a long latch needle 
alternate with a short latch needle. The long 
latch needles hold the stitches for a certain 
number of revolutions before casting off. This 
continues for any desired length, after which 
the machine changes automatically to a plain 
knitted fabric for the neck band of the tie. 



86 KINKS FOR KNITTERS 

After the plain knitting is made the required 
length, the machine again changes automati- 
cally to make the long end of the tie the 
length required. It will then change to plain 
knitting, making a space of three inches to 
separate the ties. A machine will produce 10 
to 12 dozen ties in 10 hours. 

Another tie is made by having three short 
latch needles alternate with one long latch 
needle, using any two colors desired, such as 
black and white, old rose and green, garnet 
■and white, etc. The long latch needles will 
hold the stitch for as many revolutions as re- 
quired before casting off. When the required 
length is knit it will make the plain knitted 
fabric in one color only, and will change again 
automatically, knitting the two colors until the 
tie is finished. 

A plain stripe tie can be made either with 
short latch or long latch needles as desired 
and is made on two feeds. On one feed there 
are placed, for example, a navy spool and a 
white spool and on the other feed only a navy 
spool. When the stripe is working one navy 
comes out while the white goes in for two 
revolutions. This shows up on the tie one rev- 
olution of white stitches and then one of navy 
stitches and again one revolution of white, 
then a space of four stitches, when the stripe 
is again continued as before and then repeated 



KINKS FOR KNITTERS 8/ 

once more. Then there is a space of an inch 
and a half of plain navy before the three 
^stripes start again. 

What is known as a wide bias stripe tie is 
made on two feeds, using all long latch needles 
and a wheel cut one and one, except at one 
place where a slot is cut which allows three 
needles to hold the stitches. This wheel has 
an even number of cuts in it and the cylinder 
has an odd number of needles, a plain wheel 
on one feed and the cut wheel as described on 
the other feed. 

This pattern shows up very well in black 
and white, dark green and red, navy blue and 
Alice blue. Laramie. 



Bleached Goods Turning Yellow 

I am enclosing two samples of knit goods. 
Both pieces were bleached with chlorine made 
from an electrolizer. I boil off for five hours 
in a Jefferson kier, using 2 per cent, bleaching 
assistant, 1 per cent, caustic, 1/4 per cent. 
Turkey red oil, rinsing in a kier for one hour. 
I then take the goods out and wash in a ma- 
chine for one-half hour in hot water, then in 
cold water, then run them in the chlorine 
liquor for one hour at 2° Tw. Rinse in cofd 
water for 20 minutes, sour in 5 per cent, anti- 
chlorine for 25 minutes, rinsing thoroughly. 
Blue and take out, extract and dry in a Hurri- 
cane dryer at a temperature of 120° F. After 
the goods lie around for a few days they turn 
yellow. I also have the same trouble with my 
heavyweight goods. Duplan (1276). 



50 KINKS FOR KNITTERS 

The electrolizer chlorine bleach is very pop- 
ular and very good. "Duplan's" trouble may 
be in the bleaching. Another hour would do 
no harm. It is best not to use any Turkey red- 
oil, as the oil retards the action of the caustic 
on the goods. The bleaching assistant, if it is 
a good one, should serve the purpose that the 
oil is used for. It seems to me that the 
chlorine bath is a little strong at 2° Tw., and 
would tend to force a white on the goods. It 
would be much better and cheaper if "Duplan" 
used the chlorine bath a little weaker and let 
the goods lie a little longer, instead of forcing 
them, as one hour is not long enough for the 
chlorine to do its work. If the goods are thor- 
oughly bottomed in the boil for one hour, or 
the chlorine bath is too short, use the chlorine 
at 1° Tw. and leave the goods in longer, as 1° 
is strong enough unless the goods are very 
heavy. It seems to me that the antichlorine is 
not strong enough, otherwise the goods are not 
long enough in this bath to neutralize the 
chlorine in the goods. This will produce the 
trouble "Duplan" is having. The drying at 
^20° is all right, and the goods should be soft 
when dried at this temperature. If "Duplan" 
will try the following process for one batch of 
goods I am sure his trouble will disappear: 

Boil 6 hours with 



KINKS FOR KNITTERS 89 

2% Bleaching Paste, 
1% Caustic Soda, 
, 1% Soda Ash. 

Leave out the oil. Follow the usual process 
as to washing the goods, using the chlorine at 
1° Tw. and let the goods lie a little longer than 
before, or until they are a good white. The 
antichlorine used, whether it be muriatic, 
acetic or sulphuric acid, should be tested and 
used about 1/2° Tw. stronger than the chlorine 
bath, leaving the goods long enough for the 
acid to neutralize the chlorine in them. Then 
wash and blue the goods and dry as usual. 
A lot of trouble in bleaching yarn, knit goods 
and piece goods is caused by rushing in the 
process to keep up the production and to keep 
down the cost, at the same time sacrificing the 
finish. Alpha. 



Stains on Bleached Knit Goods 

We are having a great deal of trouble with 
our bleached goods being stained and streaked. 
One part of a roll may be all right and another 
part in the same roll may be brown for several 
yards or may have yellow blotches all along in 
it. Some of our cloth run in the same batch 
will be different shades. "We had several 
batches come out apparently all right, but 
after getting several weeks old they turned 
very yellow. Other goods bleached in the 
same way remained perfect. We are enclosing 
samples of these. The following are our 



90 KINKS FOR KNITTERS 

bleaching directions: We boil in a covered 
wooden kier 8 hours. The kier has a vomit 
pipe in it. We use 1 lb. caustic soda to 100 
lbs. goods. Boil 1,000 to 1,200 lbs. at a time. 
Use 100 lbs. steam pressure. Rinse out in 
three waters in boiling kier. Run goods in 
bleach at 2° Tw. until specks are all out, say 
about 15 or 20 minutes. Run in cold water 15 
minutes. Run in sulphuric acid for 15 min- 
utes. Run in cold water, then in hot water 
and soap. Run in cold water about 10 minutes 
then to extractor. Beacon (1226). 

The trouble "Beacon" is having with the 
yellow blotches and brown places in his knit 
goods is apparently due to haste in getting the 
goods through the process. It is a trouble 
that happens to most people in the bleaching 
business. The goods are either not boiled long 
enough, or are packed unevenly in the kier or 
jammed tight around the vomit pipe and slack 
on the outside. Again the washing of the 
goods in the kier if not done thoroughly pre- 
vents the chemic from doing its work, as the 
bleaching agent is destroyed before acting on 
the cotton. 

The weight of caustic is all right; another 
quarter of a pound to 100 pounds of goods 
would do no harm, or better still use half a 
pound of soda ash with one pound of caustic 
to every 100 pounds of goods; this will help 
to get them whiter. The length of time for 
boiling is all right, but the chemicing is too 
severe and too quick. It would pay "Beacon" 



KINKS FOR KNITTERS 91 

to adopt the following method for chemicing 
the goods: 

Mix 10 lbs. soda ash with every 100 lbs. of 
chemic powder in the mixer, or if he does not 
mix his own, add 5 lbs. of soda ash to each 
carboy of chemic at 14° Tw. Stir this up and 
then let it settle, using the clear liquor for 
the goods in the following manner: After 
boiling the goods, rinse thoroughly in the kier, 
lift out of kier into extractor, then into bleach 
at 1° Tw., letting them lie for one to three 
hours until the goods are snow white, without 
danger of tendering them, the soda ash pro- 
ducing the whiteness which the chemic lacks. 
"Beacon" might try one lot in this manner, 
checking the time of labor, cost of chemic and 
most important of all, note the difference in 
the color of his goods. "Beacon" must see 
that each roll is thoroughly saturated in the 
chemic bath. When they are white enough, 
wash out all the chlorine and sour at 1/2° 
higher than the chemic bath, letting them lie 
longer in the acid bath, say from one to two 
hours, thus giving the acid time to neutralize 
any trace of chemic that has been left in the 
goods. Wash the goods thoroughly after tak- 
ing from the acid bath, then soap as usual and 
put in extractor. If this method is followed 
good results will surely be obtained. 

Delco. 



92 KINKS FOR KNITTERS 

Shrinkage in Underwear 

Can you give us any information on the 
subject of shrinkage in the manufacture of 
woolen underwear? Norfolk (1956). 

I take it for granted that the information 
you desire is for flat knit underwear which is 
cut in the grease and scoured, fulled and 
boarded in the garment. In the first place 
the conditions such as stock and the method 
of handling must be taken into consideration. 
Each mill must determine the exact shrinkage 
on every style that is run by actual tests, as 
for instance an all wool line would require 
considerable more allowance for shrinkage 
than a line of 30 per cent, cotton. 

Also different grades of wool will take a 
different shrinkage and styles containing 
shoddy still another shrinkage. All these 
must be tested out each time a new style is 
added to the line, or each time the ingredi- 
ents in the batches are changed. I have 
found that it is necessary to knit these goods 
one inch wider than the actual width required 
at boxing and they must be cut from 8 to 12. 
inches longer than length required at boxing, 
to allow for shrinkage at both looping and 
fulling. Always keep in mind that the condi- 
tions under which the goods are handled will 
change the shrinkages. 

The following is a test shrinkage of an all 



KINKS FOR KNITTERS 93. 

wool garment knit on 16 gauge, 21 grain yarn 
(weighing six ends), 19 inch cylinder cloth 
measuring 21 inches at the cutting table, cut 
40 irjches long, sleeve cut 22 inches long. To 
the body of this garment is looped a 6 inch 
rib tail and to the sleeve a 6 inch cuff. This 
garment goes to the scouring from 39 to 40 
inches long, 21 inches wide, and finishes at 
the boxes 34 inches long, 20 inches wide, 
sleeve 21 inches, cuff and borders 4 inches 
long. Badger. 



Gauges of a Latch Needle Machine 

Please give me information on the following 
points: 

1st. The different gauges of a latch needle 
knitting machine. Example, 8 cut, 24 gauge. 

2d. The count of yarn that is best adapted 
for the different gauges; from the heaviest to 
the lightest. Example, 7s heaviest — 10s light- 
est on an 8 cut machine. 

3d. If you were to pick up a latch needle 
and look at it, how would you tell what gauge 
it was and the size of the hook? 

4th. The cylinder needle as a rule is larger 
in the hook than the dial needle of the same 
machine. If you were running from heavy to 
light count of yarn on the different cuts or 
gauges, what hook needle would be preferable 
on both dial and cylinder? Lester (195 2). 

The different gauges of a latch needle ma- 
chine are as follows: 



94 KINKS FOR KNITTERS 

4 cuts, 12 gauge 

6 cuts, 18 gauge 

8 cuts, 24 gauge 

12 cuts, 3 6 gauge 

By cuts is meant the number of needles or 
slots to an inch or the circumference of a cyl- 
inder. As a rule cylinders are not cut much 
finer than 12 to the inch, because as high as 
4 2 gauge needle can be used in them provid- 
ing, when ordering a cylinder cut 12 to the 
inch, it is designated for 42 gauge. The 42 
gauge needle being finer the slots or cuts are 
made to fit this gauge. This also applies to 
any gauge as it is found if the article to be 
produced is light in weight, but not fine in the 
stitch, a cylinder is procured which is cut as 
before stated. For example, a 4 cut cylinder 
if cut for it can run with an 18 gauge needle, 
or a 6 cut can run with a 24 gauge needle, etc. 

The cotton counts of yarn best adapted for 
different gauges are as follows: 

2s heaviest — 4s lightest or a 4 cut machine. 

5s heaviest — 7s lightest or a 6 cut machine. 

7s heaviest — 10s lightest or an 8 cut ma- 
chine. 

12s heaviest — 18s lightest or a 12 cut ma- 
chine. 

As a rule a knitter knows by experience 
what the gauge or needle is because very few 
knitters have a wire or needle gauge to meas- 



KINKS FOR KNITTERS 95 

ure the gauge by. A 12 gauge needle would 
be quite thick and if it had a 12 gauge hook 
on it would be in proportion to the thickness 
of the needle, but if the 12 gauge needle 
should have an 18 gauge hook, it could readily 
be distinguished because of the hook being so 
much smaller than the rest of the needle. 

In running from heavy to light counts of 
yarn it is always advisable to have the cyl- 
inder needle, both hook and needle, one 
gauge, but the dial needles can be made with 
a finer hook than the cylinder needle. The 
reason for this is that if it is desired to 
change from heavy to light goods, the dial 
stitch can be made tighter and produce a finer 
knit fabric than if the dial needle was the 
same gauge of hook as the cylinder needle. 
For example, on a 36 gauge cylinder the dial 
should have a 36 gauge needle with a 42 
gauge hook, and the same proportion in the 
different gauges, which enables one to change 
from light to heavy yarn without having to 
change the cylinder or dial needle to do so. 

Laramie. 



Changing a Mill from Two-Piece to Union 
Suits 

Would it be advisable to change a mill mak- 
ing two-piece garments to union suits and 
what are the advantages and disadvantages of 
such a change. Butler (2117). 



■-96 KINKS FOR KNITTERS 

In the first place the profits on the two lines 
should be investigated. I doubt if any of the 
manufacturers of union suits today are mak- 
ing any more monej 7 on a dozen pair of shirts 
and drawers, whereas they should get double, 
as one suit really represents a shirt and 
drawers. 

In cutting suits the waste is bound to be 
more as it requires a strip of cloth nearly the 
length that a shirt and drawers would take, 
consequently the cutter cannot work to as 
good advantage in turning out holes, etc. 
Then again the seconds will double up, for 
when a second is made in the shirt end of the 
suit, the drawers end must also go for a sec- 
ond. The same naturally will happen if the 
drawers end of the suit gets spoiled, whereas 
in the two-piece garments only the shirt or 
drawers becomes a second, as the case may 
be. 

In the different operations throughout the 
mill the seconds will also be greater owing to 
the bulky character of the double garment, as 
it is difficult for the operators to keep the 
goods from eatching in the machines or drag- 
ging on the floor and getting soiled. The 
greatest care must be taken to keep the floors 
and tables clean, and the machines and shaft- 
ing free from oil. 

Madison. 



I N DEX 



PAGE 

Air Stains on Bleached Goods 9 

Allowance for Yarn Variation 17 

Assortment of Sizes of Sweater Coats 72 

Bicycle Stockings, Knitting 63 

Bleached Goods, Stains on 89 

Bleached Goods Turning Yellow 87 

Bleaching, Hard Water in 36 

Bleaching, Loss in 74 

Broken Needles 10 

Buttons, Marking 23 

Calculations for Sizes of Yarns 41 

Causes for Variation in Yarn 22 

Cause of Stains 69 

Causes of Waste 14 

Changing Mill from Two Piece to Union Suits.. 95 

Crooked or Twisted Hosiery Knitting 50 

Curly Knit Goods 72 

Depreciation of Machinery in Knitting Mills 44 

Drying Hosiery 54 

Dyed Yarns, Softener for 54 

Dyeing, Loss in 74 

Duplicating a Knit Fabric 75 

Equivalent Counts of Single and Ply Yarn 40 

Finishing Mercerized Hosiery 65 

Formula for Scouring Worsted Yarns 35 

Formula for Soap 22 

Gain or Loss in Dyeing 74 

Gauges of a Latch Needle Machine 93 

Hard Water, Treatment of 36 

Horsehair Knitting 34 

Hosiery Finishing 65 

Hosiery Scrooping 52 

Hosiery, Sizes of 67 

Humidity, Effect on Yarn 18 

Knitting Neckties 84 

Latches, Stiff 16 

Lisle Yarn 43 

Luster on Half Hose 60 

Machinery, Depreciation of 44 

Machines, Yarn Sizes and Piece Work Prices for 

Hosiery Knitting 24 

Making Knit Goods Unshrinkable 80 



98 INDEX 

PAGE 

Marking Buttons for White Goods 23 

Marks to Stand Bleaching 79 

Men's Union Suits, Sizes of 66 

Mildew, Removing- 59 

Neckties, Knitted , 84 

Needles, Broken 10 

Oil Spots, Removing 49 

Oiling Yarn .' 39 

Oily Odor on Finished Goods 22 

Patching Up Machines 47 

Percentage of Cotton in Merino Yarn 78 

Piece Work, Prices for Hosiery 24 

Preparation to Prevent Rusting 44 

Pressing Half Hose to Give Good Luster 60 

Pressing Hosiery 66 

Removing Mildew 59 

Removing Oil Spots 49 

Ribbed Hosiery, Waste on 13 

Rusting, Preventing 44 

Scrooping Mercerized Hosiery 52 

Seconds and Waste on Underwear 12 

Sewing Tops on Hosiery 62 

Shrinkage in Dyeing and Bleaching 74 

Shrinkage in Underwear 92 

Sizes, Assortment of for Sweater Coats 72 

Sizes of Boys' Sweaters 71 

Sizes of Hosiery 67 

Sizes of Men's Union Suits 66 

Sizes of Sweater Coats 69 

Sizes of Two Piece Ribbed Underwear 68 

Soap, Formula for 22 

Softener for Dyed Yarns 54 

Stains on Bleached Goods , 9,89 

Stains on Sweater Fabrics 69 

Stiff Latches 16 

Stitch Cams, Worn 11 

Stop Motion, Effect of 15 

Temperature for Drying Hosiery 54 

Testing Merino Yarn 78 

Treatment of Hard Water in Bleaching 36 

Trimmers on Loopers 53 

Unshrinkable, Making Goods 80 

Variation in Size of Yarn 17 

Waste and Seconds on Underwear 12 

Waste on Ribbed Hosiery 13 

Worsted Yarns, Scouring 35 

Yarn Adapted to Different Gauges 94 

Yarn Calculations 40 

Yarn Oiling 40 

Yarn Sizes for Hosiery 24 



£ LAMB 



Most widely used ; being operated 
in every civilized country in the 
world. For description, prices, 
etc., see catalogue. 

Original and Still the Best 




LEADER OF KNITTERS 



CIRCULAR MACHINES 
RIB TOP and SEAMING MACHINES 



Lamb Knitting Machine Co. 

P. O. Box 5888 

CHICOPEE FALLS, : MASSACHUSETTS 

J. E. WOODHEAD, 124 E. 22nd Street, Chicago 
L. D. SANBORN, Room 513 Wool Exchange, New York 



Mechanical Stop Motions 

For Circular Rib Knitting 
Machines 




Use the Crawford Stop Motion 

with 1 4 years of success at its back. . Better 
now than ever and in general use throughout 
this and other countries. 

MANUFACTURED AND SOLD BY 

The Crawford Manufacturing Co. 

New Brunswick, New Jersey 



The Acmes 

Keep 
Knitting 
Kinks 
Kornered 

Ask those who use them 

Acme Knitting Machine 
and Needle Co. 

FRANKLIN, N. H. 



Standard Latch Needles 



MANUFACTURED BY 



EXCELSIOR NEEDLE CO. 

TORRINGTON, CONN. 

The Largest Manufacturers of Machine Needles in. 
the World. 




Longer Wear 

Less Mending 



Better Work 
Fewer Seconds 



Have you tried our 
Special Rivets? 

Agents 

C. B. Barker & Co., Ltd., 42 W. 15th St., New York. 
Manufacture' s' Supplies Co., 1328 Cherry St., Phila. 
C. Shawl, 682 Mission St., San Francisco, Cal. 
J. C. Strittuuatter, 2a Calle de San Francisco, No. 9, 
City of Mexico, Mexico. 



Bye 

TRADE MARK 

The Barber Knotter 

FOR SPOOLING AND WINDING 

" It is such an ingenious bit of mechanism 
that it must be seen before its work can be 
either credited or appreciated. 11 
Write Our Nearest Office 




Barber -Colman Company 



Boston, Hass. 



Greenville, S. C. 



MAIN OFFICE AND FACTORY 

ROCKFORD, ILLINOIS 



FEB 2 1912 



JUST INVENTED — A NEW 

Shank Button Sewing Machine 




J This is an actual reproduction of work just as it is 
J% finished by this new machine, which sews on 
^ shank buttons or covered buttons, giving 

Better Results Than Hand Sewing 

THREAD KNOTTED 
THREAD SEVERED 

Quality of work done is equally as 
good as that done on the UNION flat 
button sewing machine, which is so 
well known to knitgoods manufacturers. 

Write for samples and prices. 

UNION BUTTON SEWING COMPANY 

184 HIGH STREET, BOSTON, MASS. 



E. O. SPINDLER 

350 Broadway, New York City 
IHPORTER OF 

KNITTING MACHINES 

REPRESENTING 

Edward Dubied & Co. 

Couvet, Switzerland 

Flat Knitting Machines 

for hand and power 

Full automatic, fashioning, 2% to 18 needles 
per inch, Links and Links machines. 




David Richter, Inc. 

Chemnitz, Germany 

, "Cot- 
One copy del. to Cat. Div. system 



rt b 2 tsftk 



French 
hines, 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




014 082 449 5 



